JPOST: https://www.f150forum.com/f4/screeching-under-hood-area-557291/#post7585069

JPOST: https://www.f150forum.com/f4/urgent-4r75e-possible-transmission-trouble-557090/#post7583020

JPOST: https://www.crownvic.net/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=4183357&#Post4183357
 

Replaced BT with Motorcraft BT165(?) & serpentine belt with Gates K061031 / 6PK2618.
 

Checked trans fluid for the first time ever: It was at the bottom of the crosshatch. Added 1 qt SuperTech Mercon V, and a second qt just to get more fresh fluid in there.
 

At cold startup, truck has not been rattling like it use to.

Added Gunk Motor Flush cleaner to oil and ran truck for 31 minutes, mostly at idle, but I did rev it a few times.   The recommended time to run vehicle is 5 minutes but I ran it longer to help fully loosen anything up.

Changed oil and filter; oil = 6qt Rural King 5W20 Full Synthetic + 1 heaping quart of Lucas;  filter=Motorcraft FL-820S.  This is the first time I have ever used Lucas.    The old oil didn't appear to have any grit or foreign particles in it other than being quite dark, which part of that may be the varnish that the Gunk Motor Flush loosened up and dissolved.  I installed oil pan drain plug using a new cut piece of cork gasket.  Engine sounded no different while running after the oil change. 
 

Youtube: Ford F-150 5.4L 3v Triton Engines: This is Why You Always Replace the Roller Followers!
 

5.4L 3V 2004-2010 Ford OEM Cam Phaser, Timing Chain, Upgraded Oil Pump, and VCT Solenoid Replacement Kit SKU# 3R2Z-6A257-DA-RAT-KIT  $1262

Consider using quart of Lucas oil additive and/or Marvel Mystery Oil. (I ordered Lucas)

Consider 10W30 or 5W30 for next oil change. Someone suggested 0W40
FordTechMakuloco: "many are using 15w-40 no problems but I recommend 5w-30"
NO> JUST USE 5w20 (spec) and add make the oil 20% Lucas.  20% of 7qts is 1.4qts.

Tip for taking out spark plugs without breaking them: Kroil & work them easy with 3/8in impact wrench.  Actually, this TSB covers the proper way to remove spark plugs.

7/22/23> Ran truck & recorded startup where is makes that racket for a couple of seconds. Truck hasn't run in a week.

Truck engine sounds good; there is no thuds or any odd noises.  It ticks & purs seemingly like it should,  thankfully.  So I don't think there are any cam problems at this point like I've read seen online lately with these 5.4s - just likely leaky hydrolic timing chain tensioners. 

 I looked down into the oil fill neck, and there seems like there could be varnish on some of the metal inside.  It seems plausible that a good oil flush additive might help remove some grime/sludge which is so crucial for these vehicles with variable timing and small oil holes on the cam components. .

7/29/23 SAT> When I started up the truck today after it sat for a week again, interestingly, it did NOT make any startup rattle at all.

9/1/23 Truth be told, I don't see why I can't run straight 10w30 oil in this engine due to hot temps nearly year-round here in FL.

11/5/23 Ran truck today after it sat over a week. It had NO startup rattle at all. 
After warmed up and at idle, it has some ticks, but it doesn't seem all that significant.  I am not terribly worried about this engine at this time. But as everyone says, do change the oil on time because any junk in the oil will block the upper end passages and cause further wear.

Update 6/24/23> P0420 came back.
10/26/23> I cleared the code again.
 

I put my mind to replacing the starter, remembering how much of a pain it was last time. I watched a few youtube videos, and got it done.  The top bolt was difficult but not as bad as I remember last time.  Use 3/8in drive, deep & shallow 13mm sockets, and a combination of short and long extension with the swivel head 3/8in drive, and it can be done (For that top bolt
I think I used a long socket, 3in extension, another 3in extension, and a swivel head 3/8in drive, but I don't recall specifically).  Jack up truck at least 5in, jack stands under front wheel suspension arms, get under truck with feet toward driver's side.

The truck cranks perfectly now.
 

Replaced it with Everstart Maxx 65N (Walmart).  SN: JCH20092916973
(The "N" means north for more cranking amps, and the "S" means south.)
Taking a chance with Walmart batteries again, so we'll see how well this one does.
Warranty: 3yr Replacement (confirmed with clerk in Automotive dep't: no pro rated warranty)
I did NOT take a picture of the side label of the battery before installation.

Starter was not as flaky today as it has been in the past.
 

Update 1/6/23> Installed new battery, and truck cranks very well now.
Also, topped off oil, and coolant (used G05 Zerex as that is what most google answers said).
 

11/23/22> It stuck a couple times today.
 

I replaced the blown 20amp horn fuse with a 25amp fuse.  I also disconnected the two red horns.  The existing new horns sound terrible already.  I don't know how they could have gone bad so fast except if somehow rain from H. Ian got into them already, or they are just poor quality horns. 
(I ended up setting up a return/refund for both sets of horns, but apparently I never returned them, likely due to the chaos that I was involved in at the time with regard to Hurricane Ian that happened weeks earlier.) Stay away from these branded horns: SyoAuto, Farbin, Wolo.
Update 6/26/23: After spending over an hour trying to find good quality horns, I decided to just get an exact replacement set of SyoAuto & Farbins.

10/19/22> Blew out starter and solenoid with compressed air.  Also forced spray-lube up drain holes in solenoid and starter. 

10/20/22> Starter continues to be sluggish and sometimes wont start without a second key turn.

10/30/22> The truck starter has been seizing up again if it sits a week.
Today, I stuck a skinny red tube through the port that the starter's positive cable goes through and pumped it full of spray oil until it started coming out the starter and solenoid drain holes. I then shorted the terminals and spun the starter quite a bit.  Hopefully this helps for the long-term.
 

Update 9/24/22: Added the 2 red horns back on, so now there is a total of 6 horns which may overload the 20A circuit.  The plan would be to put a 30A fuse in if the 20A fuse blows.  The circuit is a brief-usage, so I think this up-rating of the circuit is OK.

Added some G05 coolant to the coolant recovery tank as it was quite low.
 

Blew a 20amp cigarette lighter cartridge fuse tonight.
Spent alot of time trying to determine the fuse types on this truck.
It appears to have both mini fuses and tall (27mm) cartridge fuses - no short cartridge fuses.
The passenger side fuse panel has these cartridge fuses: 4 X 20A, 8 X 30A, and 1 X 40A.
I ordered an assortment of tall cartridge fuses from Amazon.
 

I measured approx 15.6in extended X approx 10.5 compressed.
Found some similar replacements on Amazon for $20 a pair and ordered. them.
 

1/10/21> Removed starter.   The top bolt is very difficult to get to but it can be done with the right socket extension lengths.
Replaced starter with Carquest 6646SN limited lifetime warranty (Advance Auto) which had better ratings than the units at Autozone, and I didn't want to wait for Amazon.
 

Filled fuel tank post trip 16.06gal. 117,542:  17.1mpg
 

Numerous codes were being logged:
P2195 -02 Sensor Signal Stuck Lean Bank 1
P0174 - Too Lean Bank 2
P0301 - Cylinder 1 Missing

Hooked up the Elm Scan & computer with ODB Wiz to read the different parameters of the ECM.

Then later, only P0191 kept logging:
P0191 - Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
(Fuel rail pressure sensor on vehicle: 5C3E-9G756-AC)

Research suggested that either the FRPS is bad or the Fuel Pump Driver Module (on vehicle: 5L8A-9D370-AA) is bad or the fuel pump is bad, or some or all of these.  I noticed when I unplugged FRPS the engine ran better.  Therefore,  I had a hunch the FRPS was bad.  I purchased a replacement, installed it, and now the engine seems to run right. Duralast SU8744.
I also read that the FRPS has a fuel temperature sensor in it.

AC Service
I noticed the AC compressor cuts out alot.
AC on max, the low side pressure was 30psi.  I added R134a and brought the pressure to an arbitrary number: 45psi.

MPG Measurement
With the Elmscan hooked up and connected to laptop, I was able to record some MPG readings at different steady speeds with AC off:
30mph: 23.5mpg
40mph: 22mpg, 23.3mpg
45mph: 24mpg
So in general, from 30mph to 45mph, the truck gets about 23mpg .

 

12/23/21> Got insurance on it.

The F150 is now legal to be driven on the road.
 

Ran wire from under driver side frame to cap's 3rd / middle brake light (LED) which had never been hooked up.
3rd brake light in cap is model AT-LED-28X30-01 & CT-14008319.

Noted the model of the bed cap is: Jason Industries Inc. 367804 "Cyber Skirt 2, Tricell, Carpet"
"04-08 FORD".

Noticed the engine isn't running right. It is also bogging down some when I floor it while driving.
I think water got into the ignition plug boots, from me washing out the engine yesterday. Took all ignition plug boots off and blew out the spark plug wells and boots. Many were wet. Also removed fuel injector connectors and blew out both sides.
Engine runs noticeably smoother and acceleration responsiveness is back to normal.
Note: DONT WASH DOWN ENGINE anymore like I did yesterday. Blow it out with compressed air instead.

Noted the length of the bed with the tailgate shut is right at about 67in (5ft 7in).

Checked the oil: It is full and looks clean.
 

Also, should probably park the truck at a rear-downward slope as I think the cap may leak just a little, and water accumulates at the front of the bed if not sloped back to allow it to drain.

Horn did not work so replaced with Wolo Maxi Sound 2 Horn Set #320-2T. They are OK; they are not quite as loud as I'd like. Apparently they are "150db".
(9/23/22 These horns suck)

Replaced windshield wipers. Brand Carquest  XQ20.
 

Engine made quite a clanking sound at startup for about 2 seconds until oil was circulated.
 

JCA will be using it for work this week.

Oil needs to be changed.

3/2/20> Calculated that the 4 days I used the truck for work commute I got average of 12.5mpg.
 

Topped off coolant recovery tank again.

Inspected underside extensively:
-FR CV joint boot is torn and needs to be replaced.

Topped off air in tires to 35lbs.

Checked oil again: It is a bit overfilled.
 

Oil seemed to be a bit low so added approx 1/2 qt RK 10W30 conventional oil.

Tested 4WD (4H & 4L): It works good.

I believe the high-speed road noise is coming from the differential  (or transfer case?). Should pull diff cover at some point and at the very least change the fluid.
 

Fuel filter underneath is shiny (and therefore likely new-ish).

Coolant overflow tank has orange sludge in it. No sign of water in the oil.
Coolant is low - overflow tank only has about an inch of coolant in it.

Noticed lots of noise seeming coming from tires at 50mph + (No not the tires).

Purchased vehicle from Terry.