To see if refrigerant leaks out again: Nearly ALL of it leaked out by end of the day.

System Repair Inquires
1. NO Steven Cole mobile mechanic: $175 to diagnose AC and provide estimate. Closed on Sat-Sun.
2. Circle Radiator & Polar Air: $ZERO to diagnose and provide estimate.
     Open only Mon-Fri. 
     No charge to diagnose.
     Can drop car off on Sat or Sun and drop key in drop box.
3. Modern Auto Air:
4. Chris V:

3/27/26 FRI 4:37pm> Called Polar Air s/w Jamie: Told him I'm dropping car off on Sunday for diagnosis on Monday. He took my name & number. I also have a detailed letter I wrote up that I will leave with the car & keys on Sunday.
 

Previous:
HVAC System Is Picking Up Heat When Heat Not Commanded
Presumably from bleedover from the heater core.
Update 3/10/26> This morning it was 75 degrees out, and cruising down the road the vent (bringing in outside air) was blowing 82-87 degrees.
Need to build and install a heater core bypass U, to help reduce heat coming into dashboard.
Everything that I can tell seems to indicate that I need 3/4in at one end, and 5/8in at the other, unlike the 97 Crown Victoria which was 3/4in & 3/4in.  A new heater core itself for this Town Car has these differing size tubes.
Update 3/10/26> I ordered Heater Core Bypass-ALUMINUM-5/8in to 3/4in
Update 3/12/26> In the stop and go traffic this afternoon and about 85 degrees out, the dash around the vents was getting quite hot.  When I first turned on the blower (from off), the blow as an astounding 140 degrees until it bled off and settled around 100-110 degrees after a few minutes.
Update 3/13/26> I ordered Heater Core Bypass-BRASS-5/8in to 3/4in
(Since the aluminum one seems like very thin aluminum).

(JPOST - LincolnForums - "Awaiting approval before being displayed publicly")
(JPOST #2 - Lincoln Forums "Awaiting approval before being displayed publicly")
(JPOST - LincolnsOnline)
 

Gear Shifter Wouldn't Come Out Of Park & No Brake Lights
After weeks of struggling with the gear shifter coming out of park, then tonight realizing that I the car had NO brake lights at all, I replaced the brake light switch with Duralast F4863 (Rating 4.6/83) (lifetime warranty).  This corrected both conditions. 

NOTE: Various internet posts imply that the brakelight switch will have to be replaced often, no matter the brand.  There is a Motorcraft branded switch available, #SW-5219, and even with this brand there are complaints regarding frequent replacement.  I last replaced the brake light switch 11/23/23 less than 1400miles ago with brand JDMSPEED.
 

(3/11/26 The Simoniz car wax bottle dropped and broke, and I threw it away.)
 

Rear defroster is not working and is only pulling 1 amp.
(JPOST - Unhelpful responses )
(JPOST )
 

Transmission Fluid & Filter Service
Drained transmission fluid, removed pan, cleaned metal fillings & gunk from magnet (there was lots), cleaned bottom of valve body (dirty), replaced filter with Motorcraft TF403, put on new drainable pan using same factory reinforced gasket which looked flawless.  Torque the pan bolts to 10ft lbs.
(New transmission pan with drain plug Dorman #265-813 UPC 019495344810)
(Transmission fluid capacity is 14 qts (13.9qts to be exact). 
It took 5 quarts of replacement Mercon V fluid to bring the fluid level into the crosshatch area on the transmission dip stick.
Note: There was a yellow factory object in the bottom of the transmission pan, indicating that the transmission pan had never been dropped before.
(A good standard might be to drain & fill 4-5 quarts every 10,000mi aka every 2nd oil change. Next drain and fill should occur at the 90,000 mile oil change.)

Battery Switch Repair
When I was working on the car I noticed the battery switch was broken in half.
When I was installing a spare battery switch #20308 it TOO broke in half while I was installing it.  These switches are JUNK.
I happened to have another battery switch of the same model, and installed it.  This time I turned the negative battery cable down 180 degrees in attempt to reduce tension on these structurally weak battery switches.
 

I set both actuators so 100% of the air coming out of the panel vents, and I can use a 9V battery (or 12V power source) to easily manually move the actuators to whatever position I choose in the future.

EATC Diagnostic Afterward:
1264: Floor door actuator fault (expected).
1263: Panel (dash vents) / defrost door actuator (expected).
2266: LH/Drivers Side Blend Door Failure or Short (will have to address in the future).

Youtube Video - JPOST
 

Car continues to take time to get from P-D (Park to drive) when warm.  From R-D it is quick.  Need to change trans filter and start changing out trans fluid. 

The AC continues to have a mind of its own once the battery is disconnected - it is difficult to get the AC to consistently blow out of the panel vents once the battery has been disconnected.  Start by trying several EATC diag/reset processes then press random buttons.
EATC Codes still consistently being reported:
1263: Panel (dash vents) / defrost door actuator.
2266: LH/Drivers Side Blend Door Failure or Short
Also, low air volume is coming from the panel vents. ( JPOST )

The shifter would not come out of park.  I believe the brake pedal switch was acting up.  I took it off and sprayed silicon lube on the shaft and switch.  It seems to have resolved for now.

Some of the steering wheel cruise control buttons do not work or you have to mash them really hard to get them to work.
Replacement Cruise Control Button Switch (left/drivers side):
7W1T-9E740-AAW (Also: 5W1Z9C888AA)
Replacement Radio & Temp Control Button Switch (right side): 7W1T-9E740-BAW
9/3/25> These switches are very difficult to find on the internet, and therefore they are not cheap.  I ordered a pair of used switches with broken screw tabs. The description indicates that they still fit securely in the steering wheel even though the screw tabs are broken.
JPOST 1    JPOST 2

10/18/25> Today I changed both the cruise control buttons switch on the left side, as well as the right side buttons (because you had to mash some of the old right side buttons for them to work as well).  Now the cruise control buttons work very well as well as do the right side buttons.   Changing of these required removal of the airbag: To remove the airbag, disconnect the battery, then use a small allen wrench and push in each of 4 spring loaded release mechanisms to free the 4 mount points of the airbag.  It was tricky to get just the right spots to release each of those.  I threw away the old cruise control buttons, and kept the right side buttons as spare.
 

Getting ready to "put the car on the road" as the weekend car. 
-Noticed it takes 2-3 seconds to shift into drive (noticed when engine / ambient outside temp was hot). The transmission fluid seemed low so I added a qt of Motorcraft Mercon V, and now it seems overfull.  No change in shifting into drive delay.
8/3/25> When cold, the transmission goes from P to D quickly, as well as P to R as well as R to D: No problems at all. Also the transmission shifts timely and smoothly on the road.
(JPOST-CrownVic.net)

Driver's side mirror is darkened and probably should be replaced at some point.
1W1Z17K707 appears to be the replacement part number WITH heated, withOUT auto dimming (I don't mind doing without autodimming). 
This website indicated that it is the correct part number for the 2007 LTC driver side mirror (1W1Z-17K707-CA) along with other Ford websites.  It shows the driver side mirror to have a SQUARE back.  I need to pull off the existing bad mirror and see if it has a SQUARE back or instead a CIRCULAR back: I checked the existing drivers mirror and it has a CIRCULAR back with numbers that appear to be: 1405769 (Hard to read but I am fairly sure this is the correct number).

Video: LTC- Side Mirror Glass Replacement - Heated and Dimming - 2003 - 2008 - Repair
"NOTE: For reasons unknown, Ford changed the inner mirror attachment assembly on 2009-2011 Town Cars. So mirror assemblies from 2003-2008 will not fit on 2009+ Town Cars. You'll need to source from those year ranges. "

CONCLUSION: I cannot find an inexpensive 1405769 (exact replacement) plus the autodim may fail again so I am going to buy just the mirror part that uses adhesive to attach to the existing mirror.  The only issue is that it might not heat up when defrost is commanded to the mirror.  Will have to test and just live without if necessary.  This is the SIMPLEST route for all the complications I have encountered. The description in the ebay ad indicates: "Fits 98-11 Lincoln Town Car Driver Side Mirror Glass
(This mirror is for the electrochromic self dimming mirror option only. This fit-over mirror glass is meant to be adhered over the existing broken glass and still be able to use the heat function of your mirror. The self-dimming feature will no longer be functional. Order only if you have a self dimming mirror)".

See 12/13/25 entry above.
 

Driver's side 4 door lock switch: 5W1Z14028BA (likely the correct part number
Passenger's side 4 door lock switch: 5W1Z14028AA

Ordered replacement drivers side door lock switch 5W1Z14028BA.
(The previous one I ordered and installed is upside down and is for passenger side.)

8/2/25> Received and installed the correct 4 door lock switch to the driver side. 
Placed the passenger side 4 door lock switch in the glove compartment for now.
 

EATC Forum Posts: "EATC - I'd Like To Disconnect Some Actuators"
(JPOST-LincolnsOnline.com)  -  (JPOST LincolnForums.com) 
 

Power Steering Pressure Switch leak
Sudden failure leaking lots of power steering fluid out of the power steering pressure switch.  Topping off the power steering fluid with Mercon V (correct specification).  Replacement power steering pressure switch calls for Duralast PS496 (same as 04 MGM).  Purchased Duralast PS496 from Autozone and changed it out (super easy).  No more leaking.

Installed old 400watt inverter that I took out of 97 Crown Victoria.  (AC Delco purchased 2007)

OIL STATUS: From what I can tell I have not yet done an oil change on this car since it has not been put on the road yet. The oil still looks clean.

PARASITIC BATTERY DRAIN
When the battery is first hooked up, there is a parasitic drain of about 2.5amps for a period of minutes, then it drops down to about 250mA. It seems the radio and inverter come on during that initial battery connection.

BATTERY / ALTERNATOR
There possibly seems to be an alternator or battery issue as the charge voltage of the alternator seems lower than it should be.  OR, the battery is going bad.  I shut the car off and put my battery charger on the battery, even disconnected from the car, and it is taking a charge for hours initially reporting 50% charged.   That is strange.  Need to investigate this more.
Upon further inspection, the battery seems to be taking a charge and is good.
The alternator seems to be fine as when the engine is revved to 2,000RPM, 14+ volts are reported.
I think the issue is at-idle low-battery-voltage that is common with Panthers.
One oddity: When I disconnected the battery the engine stalls out within about 5 seconds due to decreasing voltag (I had the AC cranked, and may have had the lowbeams & highbeams on).
(JPOST)
 

6/29/25> Put the door panel back on.
 

It is unable to self-test the DDM but it did pull the door code.  Clearly the DDM has a problem.
 

Ran numerous EATC self-tests:
1263 (intermittent): Panel (dash vents) / defrost door actuator.
2267 (intermittent): Passenger side blend door failure or short (the passenger side blend seems to work fine)
2266 (persistent) LH/Drivers Side Blend Door Failure or Short (The driver's side blend seems to work fine)

Recharged the AC. 
It blows nice and cold now. I put an oring on the low side cap - We'll see if this helps with the refrigerant leak or not.  I also ruined the high side cap as it will no longer thread on and it loosely fits now. Dorman 54374 2-pack looks like it would fit both low side and high side.

NEW ELECTRICAL ISSUE
Suddenly, the door locks (including keyless remote) and automatic interior lights no longer work.
Could be issue related to DDM (Driver Door Module).  (Youtube vid).  I checked the fuses that online resources indicated.
I took apart drivers door, removed DDM (6W1T-13C791-BB), opened it up, and noticed lots of corrosion on the circuit board. I cleaned it up with hot soapy water and a scrub brush, thoroughly dried it with compressed air, then applied spray silicon to both sides of circuit board and inside of case. Reassembled and tested it on car:  It worked for a while then stopped responding again.  Then it worked for a while and stopped responding again.  Not sure what the issue is.  Perhaps it needs to be replaced.  Took it apart & put it in front of fan / AC & in front of a hot blow dryer.

If I replace it with a used purchase online, I will likely not have the door code. Have to use Forscan to pull it.

AC airflow routing: There are apparently 5 actuators, 2 of which require the dash to be removed.

Ran a diagnostic on the EATC (FLOOR+OFF, then AUTO):
-2266 LH/Drivers Side Blend Door Failure or Short (The driver's side blend seems to work fine). YOUTUBE HOW TO.  (9W1Z-19E616-A  YH-1753)

-1242 recirculation door. This would make sense as nothing happens when the recirc is turned on and off; it appears to stay NOT on recirc, but on outside air mode as I cracked the window and there is significant airflow out the window.

-1263 Panel (dash vents) / defrost door actuator.  (If the actuator has to be replaced, dash removal is required). YOUTUBE HOW TO . But after I ran the AC for a while the air stayed coming out of the dash vents.
From his video,
Ford updates....
To fix 1263: Ford Part # 9W1Z-19E616-B or YH1754
To Fix 1264: Ford Part # 9W1Z-19E616-C or YH1755
From a forum:
"YH1755 Floor Door Mode Actuator 9W1H-19E616-CA UPC 031508569690
YH1754 Defrost/Panel Door Mode Actuator 9W1H-19E616-BA
The above are the 2 that require the removal of the dash
FOUR SEASONS 73082 Recirc Door Actuator - identical to original 3W1H-19E694-AA
I used the Four Seasons as it was 1/3 the price of the Ford and it's easy to replace.
As it turns out it was an actual Ford part with a Four Seasons sticker.
I'm wondering if Ford sources them from Four Seasons?"
I did not reset the codes. Apparently hitting defrost will clear the codes.

I did not put the replacement car cover onto the car.

AC refrigerant remains low (not empty as compressor did cycle, albeit frequently, and refrigerant lines got cold/hot respectively); I did not charge it.

Another good resource for Lincoln EATC -  03 ONWARDS TOWN CAR EATC SELF TEST:
WEB - LOCAL

Pressed FLOOR+OFF then RECIRC: Code 1676:  "Voltage out of range. Go to pinpoint test H". I reset it by pressing FRONT DEFROST, and the code didn't come back.

I ran another diagnostic Ran a diagnostic on the EATC (FLOOR+OFF, then AUTO): then CLEARED it by pressing FRONT DEFROST.

I Ran another diagnostic on the EATC (FLOOR+OFF, then AUTO):
1242 - recirc door - no dash removal required - THIS IS DEFINITELY A PROBLEM AS OUTSIDE AIR IS DEFINITELY BEING PULLED IN.
2266 - LH/Drivers side blend door (fairly easy fix) - THIS DOES NOT SEEM TO BE PROBLEMATIC

It seems like the AC weirdness calmed down the more I used it and it kept blowing out of the main dash vents when commanded albeit a short delay when commanded. The main problem seems to be 1242 recirc door.  HOW TO. I ran an EATC test and noticed that the recirc door didn't move so either the actuator is bad or the EATC is bad. I removed the recirc actuator.  The part number on it is 3W1H-19E694-AA with Ford stamped in the plastic, and it looks like it is probably original.
Ford part number 9W1Z19E616D UPC 031506589706
Motorcraft part number YH1756
Four Seasons: 73082 < This is what I ordered from Rock Auto.
I took apart the actuator and found that the motor will run at times, but also has some kind of odd intermittent internal short. A replacement recirc actuator should solve the problem.

FOR REFERENCE ONLY: Passenger side blend door actuator YOUTUBE HOW TO.
 

Ran a diagnostic on the EATC (FLOOR+OFF, then AUTO):
-2266 LH Blend Door Failure or Short

-1242 recirculation door (unconfirmed). This would make sense as nothing happens when the recirc is turned on and off; it appears to stay on recirc mode.

-1263 defrost mode door actuator (unconfirmed but likely).

I did not reset the codes.  Apparently hitting defrost will clear the codes.

Problem With HVAC Vents
Even though I have the cabin vents selected, it wants to blow from the HVAC through the defrosters, then maybe switches to the cabin vents, then maybe switches to the floor vents, seemingly at random.  Oring issue in EATC?
(JPOST)

AC compressor is cycling frequently; I believe refrigerant charge is low. It is oily around the low side schrader valve and may be leaking from there.
 

LR window won't go down.
(JPOST)

UPDATE  3/25/26> A few days ago I noticed the LR window would go up and down! I think since I began driving the car, the vibrations loosened the stuck window.  It now works completely fine.
 

I installed a battery cutoff switch on the negative terminal.

The aftermarket lead positive terminal broke off, so I replaced it with same.

I installed 2 x 20A fuse holders at battery for future run to front passenger seat for inverter.

I ran 10 gauge wire from the 40A fusebank through a relay above the driver's feet, and to the passenger seat.

AC Vent Problem: There is clearly some inconsistencies with regard to the AC vent blow; It will not always blow out the front vents.  I suspect an o-ring replacement issue much like I had to do on the MGM.  (NO - NO ORINGS - ALL ELECTONICALLY CONTROLLED)
 

To order a transmission pan with drain plug - Dorman 265-813 UPC 019495344810
 

There is a left side marker light out which I replaced. 
At the same time I noticed the headlights aim was off so adjusted that a bit (not perfect).