One possibility is that the fuel level is much lower than I estimated (48-13.7 = 34 gal should still be in there) and some type of "float" has dropped to the point of closing some sort of check valve on the fuel pickup tube.  That would require more research as to whether such "float" even exists.

Forum Discussion/Notes (HDB) (General - more activity)

Forum Discussion/Notes (HDB) (Engine - not much activity)
 

I pulled the spark plugs and sprayed lube down each hole, and also with the exhaust cover removed, I sprayed the pistons through the exhaust ports.  The port bottom spark plug had some rust on the threads, so it is evident that that cylinder may have rust issues, causing the seizure.

I even tried the electric impact wrench on the flywheel nut.

Spraying alot more lube oil & PB blaster in while keeping motor turned up so thre port head is somewhat upright, and it hopefully can soak.

Most suggestions are from here.
 

Future:
Somebody mentioned to pour half automatic transmission fluid with half acetone down the spark plug holes and let it sit for days.  Possibly set up an air fitting  to blow compressed air into the cylinder(s) through the spark plug hole which forces the lube to go past the rings. A leakdown detector would have the right air fitting.

Possibly use an aluminum tube (vs wood) and tap each piston through the spark plug hole.

People recommend using a "strap wrench".

Use air chisel and provide localized vibration to areas on the block next to the cylinders.
 

Additional concerns:
The center part of the block where the exhaust plate attaches has numerous areas that are pitted badly. I cleaned center passages with wire brush, and dremel, and there's a lot of porus pitting.  I used Marine Epoxy on perhaps 6-8 areas that were pitted badly.  I am not terribly confident that the epoxy will hold for two reasons:
1) I didn't excavate some areas fully because it kept compromising the mating surface.
2) I am not sure the epoxy will longterm withstand the heat of exhaust.

Future:
-I will sand the epoxy and reapply a second batch if necessary.
-Order exhaust plate and cover (new or used?).
-Poppet valve (which will help regulate pressure in the event of another hole developing.

 

Tested compression.  It seemed to have decent compression - 90 or above or so.
I doubt head gasket is the issue. 
I have a feeling the block has a hole in it again. If so, possibly can patch it with epoxy.

I don't think I can reach down inside the inner block water cavity, as it is too narrow, so the next course of action should probably be to remove the exhaust plate off and inspect.
 

1. Existing fuel primer bulb was split and dry-rotted already.  Replaced it with last spare of same make. 
Need to replace with quality brand & get a spare.

2. Inspected captains seat mount.  It is darn near impossible to get set removed from boat to repair the several loose hardware.  Instead, I bought 4 X 4in 5/16in galvanized bolts and drilled through the underside of the seat and secured to boat.  It is very firm now. Added gasket maker to bolt head and washers on top.
Monitor bolts for eventual rust. Replace with stainless steel bolts and washers if necessary.

3. Replaced RCA power plug as the old one was rusted.

4. Wired the 2 previous stereo speakers to the audio output of the VHF radio (green & yellow wires) to accomodate for the used RAY 45 radio I purchased a few years ago where the front speaker doesn't work.

This used RAY 45 is in better shape so it will be come primary radio, and the old RAY 45 has now become the backup radio kept in the small accessories bin I bring to the boat each outing.

I ran some tests:
1. Hooked cut fuel line to an adapter screwed directly into the fuel pickup head: The FPB still collapsed.  There must be junk at the end of the fuel pickup tube.

I then opened the fuel fill port and used  compressed air to gently reverse pressure down the fuel pickup tube using a threaded air coupler which threaded perfectly into the fuel pickup head.

2. I repeated test 1 and this time fuel flowed and the FPB did not stay collapsed. This proves there was junk that was cleared at the fuel pickup tube.

3. I then put the ASV back in line but surprisingly, the FPB once again stayed collapsed.

I went to West Marine and found the exact same ASV. I blew through it but surprisingly found that it had far more resistance than my old one. With this in mind I new it would not make sense to replace the ASV with a new one.

I decided to bypass the ASV since the fuel tank is LOWER than the motor and there's no chance for a siphon to occur. I purchased a brass 1/4in NPT to 3/8in barb, however, concerned with galvanic corrosion risk and not wanting to use brass against whatever metal the fuel pickup tube head is connected to, I figured out how to convert the ASV to straight-through flow with no check valve simply by drilling the sleeve out which allowed the ball and spring to be removed.

The only downside I see is fuel going back into the tank from the water separator and losing a bit of "prime".
Not sure if I will have to prime more often or not. To test by going out for a day.
 

Fuel delivery problem again when running west through through Miserable Mile (and I calculated we had about a half tank of gas - 26gals).
I need to get this figured out.

After trip tank probably has 20-22 gal in it.
 

Depth finder is unreadable due to moisture intrusion, even after trying to dry with a hair dryer. Ordered replacement used head unit (Eagle Cuda 128).
 

Update 3/15/21> Yesterday I used a dark green  plastic lemmon juice container, cut a strip, and inserted it into green nav housing: This completely corrected the problem. The light is truely green now.

Thread resource 1

Distance measurements:
From home to Big Shell Island: 5.4mi
From home to Span B: 9.4mi
 

Engine-start concern from months ago isn't a concern anymore; it seems to cold-start fine with heavy initial throttle.

Engine bogged down today.  Seems fuel-starved after a long few mile run.
Fuel primer bulb was collapsed.  Replaced 10 month-old fuel primer bulb.  The old FPB seemed fine.  The  engine ran good until the evening when it bogged down again. 

Need to check the fuel line again upsteam from the FPB.  Maybe the fuel tank pickup/strainer/screen is clogged??
 

Repaired poor connection on starboard nav light (green) by sanding and soldering. Replaced lightbulb while in there.
 

Drained lower unit oil.  Oil was black with some gray areas. A good amount of oil came out so not much has been lost.  Added just over a quart until full, and tightened both screw plugs very tight.  Lube UPC 079700115642.
 

Maybe should invest in a keel guard.

Gelcoat Research
*3 layers recommened. $35/qt
MEKp catalyst 1.5% - 2.5%
GC shelf life is 6mos
Sand surface
Clean with Acetone
*Gelcoat with NO wax first 2 layers.
*Gelcoat with wax additive last layer (to allow curing).

Forum Discussion / Notes

7/23/20
I noticed the horizontal anode on the engine transom mount is gone inbetween the bolts. I am pretty sure it is this.  6G5-45251-02-00.
Purchased one from Ebay.
 

I'm thinking the cold hard-start condition is due to:
The starting battery is losing energy when the boat sits and therefore cranking speed is lower than it should be. Battery is 4 yrs old.
OR
Starter is going bad.
OR
Power connection(s) to starter are poor.
 

Possible causes:
1) Low cold compression. Check compression when cold.

2) Vacuum or fuel pump issue?
Possibly temporarily replace fuel pumps with old ones from 2006.

7/6/20
After the engine has been sitting for about 12 hours overnight, and cold to the touch, throttle at idle, I used Harbor Freight compression tester on each cylinder pulling and replacing 1 plug at a time.  I could not get an accurate reading as the needle jumped all over but it was above 100 or 110 psi each cylinder.  (The schrader valve in the compression tester must be sticking or degraded).

Opened throttle to WOT, and ran a test on 1 cylinder: Compression seemed the same.

After the test the engine started right up immediately (unusual, but good).  Ran engine then tested 1 cylinder compression and it appeared to be the same.

Note spark plug threads are 14mm.

7/12/20
Performed cylinder leakdown-check while cold - engine hasn't run in a week.
Note: Control pressure was 98lbs.

Port              Stbd
#2: 95/98     #1: 97/98
#4: 97/98     #3: 73,87 / 98
#6: 99/98     #5: 96/98

Cranked w/oput spark plugs in for 5 sec.
#3 82/98
#5 no change
#2 no change
#3 again: 89/98
All cylinders are good except I can't explain the low & varied reading for #3.
I am no longer concerned with compression or leakdown being an issue as all of these numbers are <20% (which is typically accepted), except for the 73 number which is strange.
Afterward,engine started right up on second try, this time. Weird but good.

Maybe there is an issue with the starter disengaging too quickly before the engine starts to fire consistently.
Interesting thread implying issue with low speed cranking and the bendix retracting.
 

Boated up canals to Steve & Janel's house while watching people shoot off fireworks (there were not major fireworks shows this year due to COVID-19).

Note: When first starting engine at dock it was very difficult to get it to fire. It took at least 3 or 4 minutes to get it started.

Outing in the evening to Big Shell Island. (10.6mi)
(I don't think I washed the boat down or flushed the motor after).

 

I cut several rusty broken steel belts sticking out, then sanded and applied Permatex black silicon to the open part of the cables. 
 

Amazon search reveals Yamaha part number for 14 1/2 X 17 RH 3 blade prop:
6G5-45947-01-00
6G5-45947-01-98
The variation between the last 2 digits is apparently the "color / finish".
Amazon new $170
Ebay new
Ebay reconditioned $125

Prop damage invest:
Read in the forums to check for wobbly propeller which would/could indicate prop shaft is bent.  Rigged up a drive belt against a battery powered drill to spin prop.   Prop has a definite slight wobble evident at the base as it goes side to side a bit, and also at the top rim.  Went to pull prop.  Had to hammer just a bit on the fins to break it loose after 15 years. Spun shaft (difficult) but it doesn't look like it wobbles which is good. If I had a socket I could spin shaft with drill directly and observe.

Shaft nut is 1 1/16 = 27mm. A deep socket would probably be best.

May need a new cotter pin.

6/24/20
Purchased a 27mm socket for the boat prop nut so that I can:
1)  spin the shaft with a drill, and
2) Keep it on board in the event I need to change the prop while out on the water.

6/25/20
Burris (239) 772-3222
Glenn

$69 They will fill in chipped area and correct scuffs on other blades.
7am - 4pm Closed next week.
Burris' website recommends for new prop brand Michigan #10127
(miwheel.com = 101027 < this is correct. )

Coastal Prop Technology 573-1138
They don't do outboards. Call Burris.
Prop size calculator:
https://www.miwheel.com/inboard-propellers/prop-it-now/
 

Everything I read seems to imply that this engine's WOT RPMs should be between 4500-5500.
iBoats indicated 5000.  I have a recent video and the boat WOT perhaps 4800 RPM but I may not have been all trimmed out.

New Props:
Michigan Wheel appears to cost a little more than Solas.

Went to Solas prop finder and put in 6G5-45947-01-00:
SOLAS Amita 3 #3511-148-17 (w/hub)  14 13/16 X 17
(0.3125in wider in diameter)
Another reference says this model is 14 13/16in (0.3125 wider)
UPC: 824375018206
The additional 0.3125 inch diameter may reduce WOT by 160RPM.
4800 - 160 = 4640.
Years ago the boat would go 5000 according to notes.
5000-160 = 4840 RPM.
I measured the distance from the bottom of the skeg to the prop shaft. It is between 8 & 9 inches. I'm estimating 8.25in.  Therefore there will still be skeg dipping below this wider prop.
I think I am OK with this prop.

PropellerDepot
$106+13.50=119.50
DeepBlueYachtSupply
$99+$15=$114+tax
WholesaleMarine
$98.50+$10=$109.50+tax - $10 off discount
Ebay boat_id
$113 & free 30 day returns
BoatID.com
$108.63+$119.62 (no tax)

7/1/20
Rcvd new Solas prop.
The fins are definitely differently shaped.  They are not as pointed at the tips. 

7/3/20
Used27mm socket and spun prop shaft with drill. Shaft appears true and not bent.
Installed new prop.  Generously mixed a slurry of lithium grease with Rectorseal PTFE plumber paste all over shaft splines and hub splines. Torgued prop nut to 40ft lbs (per google).  Re-used same cotter pin.  See 7/3/20 entry above.

The prop hit something in the water north of our outlet to the river. It slightly bent 1 fin. I used vice grips to try to bend it back and a small piece of aluminum broke off.  Will this negatively affect anything (performance, mechanics, etc)?
 

Overheated the engine leaving blind pass as sand must have gotten sucked up and also some tiny shells were blocking the water intake. A white puff of smoke came out of engine which alarmed me. The tell tale water port was only trickling water.  Once engine coooled off I ran it to 3800 RPM or so and it did not alarm.

At home I cleared the tell tale with a wire and it produced a strong stream afterward.
 

Calculated fuel/oil used:
Fuel/oil cost:
 

A replacement no-name fuel bulb solved the problem, as I took boat with 2ppl on board and maintained WOT several times without incident.
(Upd 4/6/20>The replacement fuel bulb resembles Pactrade Marine 3/8in 10mm Model PDSA0151-10. I ordered 2 more of these to serve as spares and to be kept on boat).
(4/13/20> Note: 2 new spare fuel primer bulbs model PDSA-0151-10 have been received and will be stored in the green bin on the boat.)

Afterward, added 18 gallons fuel & oil until full.
41 miles at 18 gallons=2.3mpg
 

The engine reduced power numerous times but the lower water intake was not blocked.  I believe the engine was overheating as the alarm would clear quick when I reduced throttle.  I feel like the slime or sand has partially  blocked internal head water passages.  Need to take out on the river with thermo sensor and ohm meter tools and confirm overheat is  indeed happening and which cylinder bank.
 

95mi /38.5g = 2.4mpg
 

Seawater Temps
1:18pm canal 84F
4:02pm Picnic Island 82F
5:13pm Tarpon Bay 84.1F
6:53pm Just south of Picnic I. 82F

The engine alarmed once or twice up on plane.  The lower unit water intake was plugged up with odd brown slime that has been prevalent in these waters.  I cleared it  with a brush.
 

Used a metal detector at Sanibel near the lighthouse but did not find the missing jewelry.

Boat ran great.

Need to replace tell-tale waterflow mount to underside of cowling.
 

Weather was fantastic: Wind was light, it was warm, and water temp was about 80F.  Lots of boaters were on the water today.

Boat ran very well.  Went WOT a few times.

Karla lost a small ring and a cross from her necklace when it broke when she was trying to get on boat. It fell into 3 feet of murky water off of Sanibel Light House at area of
N 26 27.095 W82.00.842 .
 

Determined that the engine oil tank was low and this was the cause of the alarm.  Removed level sender and placed ziptie on the cylinderical float to hold it up high, and this solved the alarm issue.

Had an outing with Karla, Kurt, & Rosanne to Picnic Island and the light house.  Ran WOT several times with no problems at all.
 

Engine continued to overhead as soon as I went above 3300RPM or so. I was only able to get on plane and maintain it 1 time.  One time I checked and determined that it was port temp sensor tripped.

I reversed/swapped the temp sensors and still the same problem happened.

Possibilities:
-Bad temp sensor.
-Waterflow restriction

Installed replacement overheat piezo alarm.
 

I tested the overheat alarm circuitry and concluded the piezo alarm is faulty, and the rest of the circuitry is good. To replace alarm.

The engine fuel filter housing is leaking slightly through the epoxy, so this will have to be replaced.
Per ebay listing, this is the correct part: 6R3-24560-00-00
They are $50-$70 new.
Update 10/15 19: Ordered "Yamadura" replacement for $39.50 Amazon.

-Engine anomaly:
Twice after coming out of a 2000rpm slow-zone pace upon rev-up eng went into limp mode. Assuming a head heat-sensor tripped, I pulled cowling and felt the heads. The heads were not overly hot and were both equally warm. Need to test the heat sensors.
 

Windy day; very rough surf.

Found that the bait pump would intermittently not work. Determined a fault of some sort with the dedicated ground wire going to it. Cut that groundwire and tapped in to the common ground for the bilge pump.

10/7/19> Found that a piece of wood under the port side storage area that has the sink water supply pipe tied to it has become disattached.
Removed the tube straps and removed the piece of wood.  Reattached the water tube to a different (flimsy) wood strip.

Checked the fire extinguisher on the boat. It is located in the green storage container. It has a date of 2014 stamped on the bottom of it and I am reading that fire extinguisher s are good for about 12 years (debatable).  The requirement for this boat since it is under 26feet is a "B1" fire extinguisher.
I think the one I have is not suitable as a B1 requires over 2lbs and this one is only 23oz (UPC 047871401635). These Kidde fire extinguishers seems to have a 6 year warranty.
 

Pulling the top cowling off, what I believe to be a rubber damper flew off and into the water. I believe it to be part # 6R3-42662-00-00. Cheapest I can find it is $8.92 shipped.
(6/25/20 I ordered 2 as I believe I might be missing a second one also. To glue them on when I receive them.).
 

I decided NOT to apply rusty metal primer this time as it looks like Superior may or may not have have applied something to the inside water-exposed areas as it was remarkably clean in most areas, but there still was some areas of buildup that I am not worrying about.

-Using a metal file, filed down high areas of where epoxy was applied to block. I think using a metal file to even the surface will work well.  Found there there were a few low spots in the epoxy, and also discovered a few more divots. Dug them out and filled them in with epoxy.

-Found that the fuel filter base is cracked and leaking when the primer bulb is squeezed.. Took it off, cleaned up area, and applied epoxy.  If this doesn't work, base will need to be replaced.

-Cranked the engine thinking that it would pull fuel/oil in and lube everything up but I am not sure that would happen with the heads off.
 

I did not think to rinse the motor with hose attachment after running the motor today before pulling the head off.
 

5/27/19
Removed starboard head.
I believe this is the first removal since the rebuild in 2006.  Cylinder passages were not too gunked up.

Cleaned both banks of cylinder water channels and prepared mating surfaces.  Vacuumed particles and blew out passages with compressed air.
Oiled cylinder bores.

There are 2 areas on the block that are corroding away and may need to be repaired.  Both are up toward the top near where the thermostats would go.

Removed water jackets from both heads.  All bolts came out fine though there was resistance.  Gaskets were hard, brittle, and broken in multiple places.

ToDo:
-Determine if Loctite Epoxy Metal/Concrete is appropriate for filling 2 corroded areas of block.

Price new & salvage heads & water jackets.
Port Head #:
Starboard Head #:
Water jacket #:

Forum Discussion / Notes (YOP)
(Most productive thread)
(Forum experiencing anomalies first noticed 9/29/19)

Forum Discussion / Notes (ME)

Forum Discussion / Notes (THT)
(Thread not productive)
 

Engine was not running right. It was very hard to start and would not idle without missing.  Cranking is uneven.
I am guessing the re-used port head gasket is leaking.

The wind blew us into the mangroves which broke off the all-around light.
The light assembly is a Perko and appears to be West Marine #255588.
Trying to get replacement base from manufacturer, but UPC 013893520968 might be a viable replacement.
(Uppdate 7/21/19> Fixed light by installing a replacement base I got for free from Perko.).
 

Took boat in river for test run with Don B.
 

Installed Attwood T800 pump cartridge to replace old baitwell motor.  I purchased the bilge pump version from Ebay which was cheaper than the aerator version, and I just used the interchangeable motor cartridge. UPC 022697018427.
 

Sprayed lithium grease over all circuit breakers in effort to resist moisture.
 

Removed port head.  There was quite a bit of gunk in the passages. Thoroughly cleaned head water passages and block water passages. Cleaned up gasket with soap & water using a scrubbrush.  Gasket was still in good shape.

Cleaned mating surfaces of block & head. Reassembled using shellac gasket maker on both sides of gasket as well as head and block.

Pulled 3 port spark plugs.  Port-center  electrode remains quite worn down. This as well as starboard top (as noted in 2015) may need to be replaced soon.  No sign of white on port spark plugs - they were drenched in gas/oil and all looked the same.

Tested in river to WOT: It no longer overheats. We reached 37mph per GPS.

Used a temp gun and determined starboard side of head gets perhaps 10degrees hotter than port now.

I need to consider flushing motor using rabbit ears moving forward.
 

Baitwell pump will not spin and needs to be replaced.
 

Engine runs fine.
 

Main feed to CB panel is a thin gauge so replaced it with a thicker gauge (likely 12 AWG).

Test: No more electrical faults or anomalies noticed.

Baitwell pump varies in pitch while running and is likely becoming faulty.
 

The engine started right up and ran fine. It is not louder and there are no odd noises. I am now confident I did not harm the engine last week.
 

-Ran engine from a small gas can of premix. However, I think oil ratio was quite lower than 1:50 as it was just faintly blue. Hope I didn't wear engine too much by doing this.  The engine did smoke at startup both times which is encouraging.

-Replaced primer bulb with new one: Attwood Model 93038LP7 UPC: 022697930385). No change. Old primer bulb seemed to still work (lasted 8 years).

-Took apart fuel/water separator.

-Confirmed fuel line from tank was not blocked by connecting primer bulb to it and pumping fuel.

-Replaced fuel/water filter/separator element with same one: Racor S3213 UPC 706672000118. Mount head is getting corroded on the outside but I still think it will last a number of years.  Cleaned all surfaces and assembled as instructed.
Old element had a slight rattle within and lasted 9 years.

-The fuel line from eng to primer is slowly deteriorating and will need to be replaced at some point. I don't see in the log where it has ever been replaced.

-Engine seems to prime better now. Ran engine to test.

Found a number of black circuit breakers which are going bad.  These are the breakers I replaced a number of years ago.
Replaced 20A main circuit breaker.
Need to purchase & replace:
-Bait Well Light circuit breaker (5A)
-Interior Light circuit breaker (5A)

During breaker rplcmnt, there was an odd electrical anomaly which caused most of the switch lights to illuminate. This seemed almost related to the bilge pump but I really couldn't pinpoint it. It stopped happening after I reattached the breaker panel to the boat. Strange.
 

Boat ran good. Tilt/trim worked fine.

Bilge pump is staying on again, likely due to poorly designed water sensor.
 

Observations:

1) Tilt & Trim motor sounded weak and eventually simply STOPPED working. I measured power at the relays and the motor was getting power.  Then just as suddenly as it stopped working, it began working again. I exercised the motor repeatedly and it worked fine after that.
Perhaps the motor brushes are getting dirty or had build-up from sitting for this length of time.

2) The starting battery kept a good charge.

3) Motor started right up.

4) Need to replace the cigarette lighter outlet as that has fallen apart.

5) The front of the bimini top is now tearing away from the support crossbar.
 

Pulled port & starboard overheat sensors and measured trigger and release temperatures:
Port Triggered at 183F
Port  Released at 150F
Starboard  triggered at 185F
Starboard  released at 158F

Port triggered before starboard, during both trigger tests.

Installed the sensors on reverse sides.
Future: Run boat in open water near WOT and see which side trips the overheat sensor.

Greased the tilt/trim ram heads and landing spots on OB.

Greased the exposed steering rod.

Took boat close to WOT to invoke it to overheat, and determined PORT side is the side that tripped overheat sensor.

Got into a bad lightning storm. Tried to tie up to a dock in SW CC, but the wake from a passing rushing boat shook our boat so violently that the force snapped the bow line. 

Update 7/11/17
Confirmed that I had cleaned the same side - port - in July 2015.  It is strange how the same side is overheating again 2 years later. 
Perhaps the water jacket needs to come off. 
 

Found cranking battery nearly dead. Charged it overnight and then load tested it but it clearly is showing signs of a bad cell(s). To replace battery.
Cranking battery lasted just short of 10 years.
Base will fit a battery size no larger than 11in X 7in.
 

Glued a few seat seams that are slowly coming apart.

The two Seasense rocker switches have failed again.  Need to replace them with different brand.
"CarlingSwitch" seems to be OEM.
Forum Discussion / Notes (FS)
 

Today, retorqued port side head bolts. None were loose.

Also retorqued starboard head bolts. They too were tight.

Pulled, cleaned and regapped all 6 spark plugs.  Port-center as well as starboard-top plug center electrodes were worn down significantly, even with the insulator. These 2 may need to be replaced soon.  No sign of white on spark plugs - they were drenched in gas/oil and all looked the same.

Engine started immediately today. No further concern.
 

Need to pull port head and clean passages.
Superseded head gasket part:
6G5-11181-A3-00
Tad's marine: $48.20+tax
Ebay & Amazon are nearly the same.
 

Removed and tested both head heat sensors: They closed around 185 degrees and they opened about 145-150 degrees.

Forum discussion / Notes (YOBP)
 

-Installed new spring around drive shaft upper seal: Lube no  longer leaks out when lower unit is turned upside down.

-Replaced baseplate, gasket, impeller key (had to grind key a small amount to fit in slot), o-rings, impeller cup, and water outlet grommets.

-Determined that the lower unit weights 56 lbs. Determined that the PropSpin to drive shaft ratio is 1:1.875
 

6/6/15> Noticed drive shaft oil seal leaks when lower unit is turned upside down.

Forum Discussion/Notes (YOBP)

Forum Discussion/Notes (iboats)
 

Forum Discussion / Notes (FS)
 

Forum Discussion/Notes (FS)
 

Ongoing overheat issue:

Forum Discussion/Notes (FS)

Forum Discussion/Notes (iBoats)

JPOST-PowerHead Passages Description (YOBP)

JPOST-PowerHead Passages Description (iBoats)

Interesting Thread:
Cleaning your cooling system with vinegar (thehulltruth)

Note 5/30/15>
Possibly to submerge the lower end in a container to flush with vinegar, the container will need to be at least:
26in L X 15in W X 21in H
= 8190 cubic inches
= 35.5 gallons
=$89 vinegar cost
= 283 lbs
Conclusion: The amount of vinegar that will be needed will be too costly.
 

3/14/15> Upon checking for leaks, the port waterjacket-to-head seal was leaking a little.  So I tightened each thermostat bolt very tight, but then one bolt snapped.  To remove the broken bolt will be very challenging.  There is a little more leakage now.  Wirebrushed and thoroughly cleaned area and used epoxy to seal along joint. Hopefully this works.

3/15/15> Took boat for test in river: Epoxyed area does not leak, but engine still overheats. I seemed to be able to sustain 3800RPM but by 4200RPM sustained it does overheat.
 

*Engine overheats now at sustained 3800 RPM after a few minutes.

*Need to pull the thermostats out, clean the passages, and possibly remove them all together.  As I bet they are caked with gook.  The last time the thermostats were cleaned was 6/2013 which is almost 2 years ago.
 

Replaced cigarette lighter accessory outlet.
 

Found that bilge pump switch is faulty.  Replaced with spare. 

Emailed Seasense about failures.
 

-Found that new Nav light switch has failed.
 

-Bilge Pump (Seasense 50031022)
-Nav lights (Seasense 50031262)
 

-Took boat to WOT several times and it didn't overheat.  The thermostat passage cleaning fixed the problem.

-Flushed using earmuffs for the first time, but engine overheated.
Forum Discussion / Notes (iBoats)

Forum thread / Note (iBoats)

-Engine overheated at WOT again.

-Ignition key switch fell apart.  Rigged it for now.  Need to replace it.
Forum discussion/Notes

-Cranking battery: Checked electrolyte level: full.  Battery has date of 07/06 stamped on it. Amazing it has lasted 6.5 years so far.

Depth finder has been inoperative since after last outing due to a disintegrating connector plug.
Replacement plug is not available.
Today I cut the plug and soldered the wires directly to the pins on the DF.  The DF is now "permanently" wired to the boat.

Forum discussion/Notes

*Replaced interior light circuit breaker which stopped working.

*Depth finder out of service: Need to replace Depth finder connector plug.
 

Let gaskets dry overnight, then ran eng in neutral at 1500RPM for about 20 min.  A droplet of water formed on the starboard top of water jacket.  Wiped it away and it didn't come back.  All looks well for a test under load.

Greased all 3 zerks on steering rack.

Diagram

MPG
69mi consumed 26.5g.
Therefore  2.6mpg
 

Replaced old faulty fuel primer bulb with new and improved Attwood model 93038LP7

2) Replaced accessory battery with Everstart MAXX 78S

2) Fishing in river

-Installed red & green nav lenses.

I believe boat is just about out of gas as fuel gage doesn't move from E.

Noticed that when flushing engine with hose attachment, water doesn't stream from pee-hole like it use to.

*Fuel primer bulb doesn't seem to be working anymore.

Engine didn't want to go to full RPMs after the boat was out for a while and I think this is because of water in the fuel again.  Not very concerned at this point.  Need to add gas and drain fuel/water separator.

Unable to determine where whine sound is coming from.

Measured voltage with eng on:
Starting battery: 14.75v - over voltage?
Accessory Batt: 13.4v

NEED TO REMOVE WATER 
FROM FUEL TANK

Replaced accessory battery

Installed 2 marine speakers (Seaworthy (prospecelectronics.com) model SEA-5572W) $40.

Baitwell Pump Upgrade & Running Sink Water
Today we upgraded the bait well pump from an Attwood A500 (500gph) to an Attwood A750 (750gph) (both less than $20 at Walmart).  The main motivation for this was because the former 500gph pump began tripping the circuit breaker repeatedly until we oiled it.  So it seemed to be nearing end of life.

Additionally, we upgraded to the 750 model with an idea in mind.  Eventually we want to install a live well.  Also, Amber Bones has a sink but no "running water"; we have to fill the fresh water bag, which we never do, then pump the faucet feverishly in order to get water.  Today I put a T in place and ran a hose from the bait well pump to the sink faucet.  Wella!  We have running water at the sink.  No more leaning over into the water to wash bait guts off our hands! 

After placing a T inline and using the 750 for both the bait well and the sink, I clearly see that it will NOT be sufficient to also pump to a live well.  This in addition to not catching that many fish at once that we truly need a live well to hold them, we will put the live well idea on hold for now.