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1997 Ford Crown Victoria LX

Maintenance & Repair Log  |  Features & Specs  |  History  |  Home

Maintenance, Repair, & Improvements Log

 

Date Description of Work Done Odometer Parts Cost Labor Cost Total
Cost
Warranty Notes
3/17/25
Car Battery Failed
Car sits for weeks at a time as K hardly uses it, and mostly uses golf cart instead.

3/24/25 Purchased replacement Rural King 1yr/60mth battery for CV SN:29252626

3/29/25 Installed replacement Rural King 1yr/60mth battery for CV SN:29252626.  Ran car then shut it off and KEEPING BATTERY DISCONNECT SWITCH OFF until car is needed to be driven again.
 

200,288
1/25/25
Checked oil & other fluids: All OK
 
200,280?
12/21/24
Taillight Replacement

Replaced the right rear tail light, and the center reflector assembly after the car was hit in a parking lot 12/9/24.
 

8/29/24
K complained of 2 recent issues:
1. Engine shut off at a red light.
2. Separately, no crank on first turn of key.

Checked over engine:
I found oil well below the crosshatch.
I found coolant reservoir tank low.

Action Plan:
1. DONE> Use hot water and strip crankshaft pulley/sensor area of oil buildup (See 11/22/22 maintenance entry below). (Also cleaned up entire engine compartment with hot water).
2. DONE> Clean & oil battery-disconnect components.
3. DONE> Add 2+ qts oil. Oil is quite dark. (Wow, the oil hasn't been changed in over 4 years. I probably should have just changed it but will likely do it once next maintenance issue arrises).
4. DONE> Top off cooant reservoir tank.
 

199,977
4/26/24
Found LR tire flat from a broken valve stem.
4/27/24> Had valve stem replaced.
 
12/10/23
Random / unprovoked addition of a bit of R134A refrigerant to the AC system.
 
12/4/23
Windshield glass was replaced by Safelite.
 
11/15/23
Vehicle was involved in an accident.
 
10/12/23
Destroyed RR tire
K drove 2 miles on a flat tire (screw likely), and destroyed the tire.
A spare is on it now.
I ordered a replacement tire from walmart.com .
(Eventually the new tire was put on.)
 
9/15/23
Windshield wiper replacement: I installed two new inexpensive windshield wipers. Clearplus UPC 633749202215.
 
198,891
9/1/23
Truth be told, I don't see why I can't run straight 10w30 oil in this engine due to hot temps nearly year-round here in FL.
 
7/8/23
Keyless Remote
The Unlock button stopped working.  I took it apart and it seems to be wet inside with corrosion. Tried to fix it but the button fell apart and I can't really get it back together. Ordered a new one. 3W73-15K601-AA

7/15/23 Rcvd replacement new keyless remote.
Programming Instructions:
1. Enter the 5 digit code on the keyless entry keypad. Enter the Original Code for the car not a modified code.
(See Notes-1997CrownVictoria_KeylessEntrySystem.txt for original code).
After entering code press the 1-2 button locks will cycle to confirm programming.
2. Press any button on the keyless remote locks will cycle to confirm successful programming . Repeat for additional remotes.
3. Press the 7-8 and 9-0 buttons together to exit programming.
Confirmed the above works exactly as indicated, and was able to program new remote to the CV.
 

4/24/23
Noticed the coolant recovery tank was quite low, and noticed (as I did on 11/22) that there is a coolant leak on the passenger side of the coolant crossover on the upper intake manifold.  Topped off the tank.  I also ran the car to see if it would leak faster but I didn't see it leaking at all.
 
2/4/23
Battery Bad
Car sits for weeks at a time and now since H. Ian, and the battery is bad once again. It has been only 2yrs 4 months on this RK battery.

2/6/23> Returned battery and purchased a replacement.  They didn't have a 72 month battery so ended up with a 60mth / 1 yr free rplcmnt.  (Update 5/7/23> This battery will probably fail quickly within months, just as the one purchased in January for the F150 did).

I also installed a new battery switch.
 

11/22/22
Car would crank but not start after sitting for days.
There is fuel pressure on the rail, but there is NO spark.
On a hunch, removed the lower engine cover, and used a garden hose to thoroughly clean the oily caked crankshaft sensor, and then car started!  Therefore, clean the crankshaft sensor once in a while.   I threw away the lower engine cover.

There is an obvious coolant leak on the passenger side of the coolant crossover on the upper intake manifold.
 

10/16/22
As a result of H. Ian on 9/28/22, with the car parked in the garage, water intrusion in trunk & whatever electronics are underneath the trunk. Some water & mud also got into the floorboard area and it smells inside.

Made claim with State Farm.
 

approx 10/4/22
Left front tire picked up a roofing nail and I plugged it a few days later.
 
7/30/22
AC Service
In the heart of the summer, I topped off refrigerant in AC system.  It was nothing scientific, but added a few 10 second blasts of refrigerant which seemed to help inside low temperature blow a little.

After Karla drove the car she said the AC was much much better.
 
198,464
5/7/22
The right tailpipe has been hanging down due to a deteriorated rubber grommet.
I removed the grommet and used copper wire to secure the tailpipe back up into position.
8/21/22> Today I did the same exact thing for the left tailpipe as it too was hanging down.
 
4/22/22
No power in car.  Battery very low in charge.
After jump start, alternator whines and can't keep battery charged.
Swapped alternators. Rcvd replacement under warranty with Autozone.  Exact model replacement: Duralast 130amp DL3504-16-10.
I also swapped pulleys to keep the special smaller diameter pulley.  Actually, Autozone let me keep the other pulley also. (Put into misc hardware bin at workbench.)
I would have to say that after the swap the output of the replacement alt seems a tad bit low.  At the alternator terminal while connected to charge wire, it put out only 13.7v.  They may tone it back a bit to make these lifetime warranty alternators last longer. 

Added 1qt oil to bring from bottom of crosshatch to top.
 

198,029

3/13/22
 

No Start Condition
Car would not start after being parked at Cisco's & Maria's for a few days.
Cranks, good fuel pressure, NO SPARK.  Checked fuse, and swapped ECM with the old one (erratic transmission shifting from years ago), and the car immediately started.   K drove it home.

3/17/22> The transmission has not acted erratic, so I'll keep this old ECM on the car until that problem starts again.
 

2/26/22
Fuel gauge may be reporting inaccurately low; not certain about this.
 
2/13/22
There are lots of rust stains on driveway under front right part of where CV is parked. 
Battery acid clearly still leaks onto metal parts of the car's metal and causing rust to stain the driveway.
Oddly, like last time, the left 3 cells of this battery are overfilled, presumably since I bought it at RK. 
I used a plastic ketchup bottle with short piece of plastic hose to suck out acid the left 3 cells to bring the levels down.
Keeping the battery acid at the work-bench in case it is ever needed.

Thoroughly rinsed area of battery on top and underneath. 

Treating numerous driveway stains once again with CLR.
 

11/13/21
Random check of oil level: Almost 1 qt low.  Added about 1 qt.

Battery: Battery is wet a little on top, and around the top seam.  It does not seem to be leaking from posts  at all.
Checked electrolyte level: It seems over full - Strange. It may be leaking from the vent caps and down the side slowly.
Need some kind of eyedropper / suction to remove some of the electrolyte.

Note: Karla only put on about 1500 or so miles in the last year.
 

197,574
10/16/21
I noticed lots of rust stains appearing in the driveway again where the CV is parked.
Is this battery now leaking acid also?
 
9/8/21
K said the AC doesn't seem to be blowing as cold as it use to. To check it.
9/11/21 Update> There is nothing wrong with the AC; it blows cold.
 
7/25/21
Checked oil: It was below the ADD mark.  Added about 1.5qts 5w30 RK synthetic (that's all I had on hand).
I also found non-synthetic Quaker State oil I can use for next topo-off (green jug).
Checked other fluids: Topped off coolant with 50/50 Durex Extended Life.
 
197,220
5/15/21
Replaced left wiper arm and now the windshield clears perfectly.
 
4/24/21
Replaced worn stud on RF hub & replaced several lug nuts.
The correct stud part number is Dorman # 610-366.1, NOT 610-368  (too thick & won't fit).  The correct part is hard to find so I should probably order a spare or two.
It was easy to replace.
610-366.1 or 610-366 should work.  The first one may be an newer version of the second number???

I replaced the wrong size lug nut drive that Walmart put on, and also replaced a poor cosmetic lug nut.  Both of these lug nuts are in the glove box in case ever needed.

Update 5/4/21> Spare wheel stud and 2 spare lug nuts purchased a few days ago and to be placed in glove box.
 

196,820

4/23/21
 

RF tire replaced.
Karla finally went to Walmart with my February instructions to the mechanic about changing the tire and scrubbing the rim to stop the leak.
Tire brand = Douglas.
Tech put on new lug nut but it has a different size head and smaller acorn seat.
Also, the 5th lug is stripped and won't tighten even with new lug nut in glove box so that 5th stud is completely useless and should be replaced.
I am ordering 2 X lug nuts. 1 to replace the wrong size the tech put on, and 1 as spare to be kept in glove box.

The center decorative hub is missing from the wheel. Need to have Walmart either replace it or pay for it.

5/4/21 update> I've replaced the center hub, and the tire appears to be holding air well, thank goodness.
 

196,806

4/2/21
 
Rcvd used PCM in the mail and replaced it on CV (refer below to 6/17/20 initial symptom note).  Test-drove CV and it did fine. Now to observe and see if it stalls out. 
Saving the old PCM in the trunk as I am not certain this is the problem. Only time will tell.
 
196,722
2/7/21
One of the RF lug nuts is spinning on the shaft.  It look like the nut's threads are worn down. Purchased 2 X 611-153 Dorman lug nuts and installed 1 which seems to tighten OK
I kept the 2nd one as a spare and put it in glove box.
 

2/3/21
 

Amber and Karla discovered that the RF window UP button does not work. Down does.  The only way to raise the RF window is using the driver's UP button.
 
1/31/21
Checked oil: It was below the ADD mark.  Added about 2qts 5w20 RK synthetic (that's all I had on hand).

RF tire is bald on the outer edge. No belts are showing but it needs to be replaced.  It lasted 7000 miles.  This is likely because both the sloppy steering as well as the constant loss of air pressure in that tire.
Size: 225 60R16
 

196,537
12/12/20
Replaced rear air suspension compressor assembly with inexpensive brand Docas purchased from Amazon for $102.
-Previously determined that the solenoid in the old compressor assembly is not functioning and undoubtedly the reason the airbags kept venting when they shouldn't have.  The solenoid seal seems to have disintegrated allowing moisture in and causing it to stick or otherwise not work.
-RAS test cycle resulted in correct operation.
 
10/29/20
Karla advised car was "jumpy like a truck" this morning.  It is not cold out.
Could the intake manifold leak be getting worse? NO, SEE BELOW.

Update 11/8/20
Karla said yesterday the care was shaking on the way to AWOL. Coming home it did not shake.
I drove it today and it ran perfectly.
I retrieved and cleared 1 code: P0156 which indicates O2 sensor circuit malfunction bank 2 sensor 2 (drivers side, downstream), which to me would not cause a drivability issue.

Update 11/25/20
Karla advised car was very jumpy.  Once again it is not cold out, just mild.

Update
I just ran the car again, and it runs very well.  Code logged:  P0156 (no concern).
 I just realized that the air suspension malfunction is making the ride very bumpy because all the air is out of the bags and you feel every bump.  I clarified with Karla and she agreed that the "jumpy" that she described is indeed the ride, not the acceleration.
Therefore, closing this possible "intake manifold leak be getting worse".
 

10/27/20
Battery will not crank car once again.
Replaced battery with Rural King group 65.  2 year free replacement / 72month pro-rated.
79.99   SN: 23960717

Battery tray in engine compartment seems to be getting weak and floppy. It droops low toward the rear of the car. Cut a large paint paddle in half and placed toward the back so that battery is level.  This droop may have contributed to the fluid leakage of the old battery also.

Noticed that car off-state draw on battery is about 130mA which initially alarmed me.  I measured the Grand Marquis, and it draws about 300mA so apparently it is normal for a bit of off-state draw.

The air suspension is acting strange.  Not sure if it is related to the battery issues, but sometimes compressor will turn on, then solenoids let all the air leak out of bags, and compressor runs and runs and rear never pumps up.  Cycle the key once or twice may or may not correct the condition.  RAS module becoming faulty again?
Note from 8/2012> RAS control module as indicated on part: F6AF-3B494-AB . Back then it was $49 for a replacement. Now the cheapest is $85 and they go to $130.
Note 11/20/20> I noticed the rear end was sagged all the way down again.  A day later after Karla drove it again, it seemed the rear was at a normal height, so the issue seemed to self-correct at some point.
Update 11/25/20> Air Suspension light illuminated again.  I decided to order a used Ebay F6AF-3B494-AB for $63.95.

Update 11/28/20> Installed Ebay-purchased RAS module and same behavior occurs.  It now makes sense that likely the compressor is bad: Confirmed that the compressor is sending very little air out the port where the tube from the rear air bags goes to.
Compressor Options: (92-2011 all 3 Panther platforms)
WESTAR CD7700 w/Dryer (RockAuto $186)
ARNOTT P2936 w/Dryer (Rock Auto $238) ($302 home delivery)
CARDONE 4J1007C w/Dryer (RockAuto $242)
AKWH 949-200 (Amazon $116)
DOCAS 8W1Z5319A (Amazon $102)  << ORDERED THIS ONE.
Pumped rear end up using home air compressor then shut off RAS switch in trunk.
Forum discussion / Notes
 

196,053
10/26/20
Karla left lights on today then car wouldn't start. She got a jump to get it started.
I load-tested battery. It appears weak but not completely shot.  It has lasted 4 years. Time for a replacement.
 
10/25/20
Karla said the windshield wipers are bad already.
4/2/21> Update. The wipers are pretty bad still. Going to wait until June (beginning of rainy season) before installing the new set of Michelins that are still in the cabinet in the garage.

5/11/21> Reviewed history with left wiper.  It has had ongoing problems with clearing the windshield.  I am going to replace the left wiper ARM with Dorman 42619 . Replaced left wiper arm - see 5/15/21 entry above.
 

10/10/20
Noticed rust stains still appearing on driveway under battery of car.
Found that left 3 cells of battery are fuller than the right 3 cells.  Used an eye dropper and removed a significant amount of fluid/acid from the left 3 cells.  I think the problem was that the left 3 cells were overfilled, and the acid was leaking out of the top.
 
9/26/20
Replaced both rear air springs.
 
195,931
9/20/20
Discovered lots of rust stains on driveway under front right part of where CV is parked. 
It appears battery acid is leaking onto metal parts of the AC refrigeration circuit and causing rust to stain the driveway.
Thoroughly rinsed battery & engine compartment. Should probably rinse area of battery quarterly.
Left bank of battery acid seems overfull. Right bank is fine.
I tried moving the battery over to the left but it won't go any further.  I should probably shield these metal parts with plastic of some sort.
Treating driveway stains with CLR.
 
9/12/20
Crown Victoria gas mileage stats:
The car has been getting 11.5mpg over the last 801 miles.
 
6/17/20
Karla claims that for 3 days now she'll be driving down the road and the car just turns off.  It starts right back up.
Amber with her today when it happened. CEL on: P0156

Drove the car and it did not happen. I checked the fuel pump relay.  It fits little sloppy in it's socket so I strapped it down. Not sure if this was the cause.

Update 7/8/20 195,393> The problem is still happening.
I replaced the fuel pump relay with one I had sitting around, and again strapped it down. I am not convinced the fuel pump relay is to blame.  I also jiggled around numerous wiring harnesses but couldn't get engine to stall.
Karla thinks maybe water in the fuel which is plausible but I still think far fetched to cause engine to fully stall out. Although maybe.
Karla filled the fuel tank today after it stalled out once.
To observe.

9/14/20> This has not happened since.
3/27/20> Happened again:  Karla reported that car shut off by itself again.  It started right back up.
Fuel pump failing again?
Fuel pump relay failing again?
Suggestions: https://www.crownvic.net/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1875839
(Someone replaced the PCM and it fixed the problem.  They are also saying a bad crank sensor can cause this. I feel like it could be a PCM issue. A used PCM on Ebay goes for about $75 (F7AF-12A650-CE). Ordered replacement PCM from Ebay for $70, free 60-day returns.
4/2/21> Replaced PCM. See 4/2/21 entry above.
 

195,280
5/5/20
Karla sent a pic that showed a dash light for rear air suspension.
I came home and checked trunk switch and it is indeed on.  I drove car and suspension pumped up.
Pump ran again soon after - perhaps a bag has a leak again.

Noticed a squeek when turning steering wheel coming from possibly left front ball joints.

9/13/19 update> I drove the car to Bonita and the compressor kept coming on every minute or so until the system apparently disabled itself and indicated Check Air Suspension. Key off/on resets the system apparently. Need to check air bags for leaks.

9/14/20> Ran car and with yard stick watched rear sag and compressor come on every 45-60s or so.  Right side pumped up almost 2/8in and left side pumped up a solid 2/8in.  Heard leaking air on left side.  There are cracks in the left air spring.  The assumption is that the left air spring has developed a leak, and so I have ordered a replacement air spring set.
 

4/21/20
Random check of oil level indicated very very low oil.  The oil level is far below the bottom of the crosshatch, and several letters below the "A" in "ADD".

Changed oil and filter; oil = 5qts Rural King 10W30, filter=Motorcraft FL-820S
It seemed like a little over half a gallon of oil came out when I drained it.  Car ran and sounded fine before and after oil change.

Checked AC performance: It blows about 50F at max / idle.  Seems to be working fine.

Lots of leaked oil was on bottom side of car. Hosed it off.
 

195,080
8/17/19

 

Fluids & tires check:

-Battery Water Level: pass

-Battery Load Test: not checked

-Brake Fluid Level: pass

-Coolant Level: topped off

-Power Steering Fluid Level: pass

-Serpentine Belt Inspection: not checked

-Tires Air Pressure: Topped rears to 35psi & front to 32psi (FR 36psi since it leaks)

-Tires Visual Check: pass

-Transmission Fluid Color & Level: topped off

 

8/12/19
Started car today and noticed it ran rough until it warmed up.
Could the intake manifold be leaking again?
 
6/29/19
Oil level check: added almost 1qt RK 10W30 oil.

Corrected tire pressures to:
Front: 32lbs (front right 36 lbs due to slow leak)
Rear: 35lbs

Check Engine light was on so checked then cleared codes:
P0156 - Oxygen sensor circuit malfunction bank 2 sensor 2 (downstream of cat, so not a concern)
P0175 - System too rich: Oxygen sensor in bank 2detected a rich condition (too little oxygen in the exhaust).
Will have to see if these codes come back.

Avg MGP: 12.5 over apparently the last 225mi.  Reset trip computer.

Front left windshield wiper arm rubs the underside of the hood just a little. Attempted to push arm further down onto shaft without success.
Bent arm just a little to provide more downward pressure of wiper onto windshield. Greased where arm rubs hood.
Replaced windshield wipers with Michelin UPC 079238022221 .
 

193,808
6/28/19
Karla said she needs windshield wipers.
The right wiper definitely needs to be replaced.
Previous notes suggest that the left wiper arm spring is weak. Can the spring be replaced? Bend the arm?
Dorman Wiper Arm 42619
 
5/26/19
Checked oil & coolant levels: OK
 
193,577
5/16/19
Topped off tire air pressure.
 
4/21/19
Oil at bottom of crosshatch. Added 1qt RK 10W30.
 
193,364
2/2/19
Mileage check.
Avg fuel economy has been 11.7mpg for the last 783mi. I reset stats to zero.

Fluids & tires check:

-Battery Water Level: pass
-Battery Load Test: Passed, though almost on the weak side.

-Brake Fluid Level: pass

-Coolant Level: pass

-Oil Level: At the bottom of the crosshatch. Added 1qt RK 10W30.

-Power Steering Fluid Level: pass

-Serpentine Belt Inspection: pass.

-Tires Air: Topped rears to 35psi & front to 32psi. Right front a little bit more because it still loses air.
-Tires Visual Check: pass.

-Transmission Fluid Color & Level: pass

Battery had some corrosion on the negative terminal. Wiped it off and applied lithium grease spray to both terminals.
 

192,591
12/31/18
Mileage check.
Avg fuel economy has been 11.6mpg for the last 555mi.
 
192,364
11/5/18
Checked all fluids & tires:
-RF tire was exceptionally low (as usual).
-Topped off remaining tires
 
9/16/18
Checked all fluids & tires:
-Tire pressure: topped off.
-Coolant: topped off
-Oil was not low.
-All other fluid levels: OK.
 
8/12/18
Checked oil: Almost 1 qt low. Added 1at RK 10W30.
 
7/30/18
Built and installed a heater core bypass elbow, to help reduce heat coming into dashboard, and since blend door actuator has failed
(and had subsequently been disconnected).

Topped off coolant with Zerex 50/50.

Note: AC still blows cold. (Evap replacement was one month ago.)
 

191,555
7/12/18
AC stopped blowing cold a few days ago.
Over the last few evenings I troubleshooted it.
Found that the compressor control coming from the EATC was producing 12 v but not enough amperage to engage the clutch.
Downloaded  wiring diagram and installed a toggle switch that controls the compressor.
(ACCompressorClutchControlWiringDiagram_2011-09-05_194750_zupo.gif)
Compressor control: EATC to low side press switch to high side pressure switch to WOT relay.

The only caveat is that if the EATC is turned off, and the bypass switch stays on, the compressor stays on while the blower is off.
ALWAYS TURN THE COMPRESSOR BYPASS SWITCH OFF IF YOU DON'T WANT AC.
 

6/30/18
Replaced AC evaporator, added approx. 5oz PAG46 UV dyed oil, vacuumed system for about 40 minutes, and refilled with R134A.
AC blows cold.
Evaporator = Four Seasons 6137N  54549

Note: I found reference on the internet that 97 CV takes total 7.5oz oil.
Note: When checking for vacuum, there was a slight loss of vacuum after a few minutes after turning the pump off and the pressure gauge valve. This may indicate that a slow leak still exists somewhere.
Note: To disconnect the evap hose, used the tool Autocraft AC502 - the blue 5/8in option. Purchased from Advance Auto.
 

191,390
6/26/18


Karla reports AC blowing warm again.
Found ZERO refrigerant pressure in system.
Charged system and it began cooling. Found leak somewhere behind evaporator housing in lower evaporator feed pipe.  It is evident that some oil has leaked out also because there is florescent green substance below the leak.

It looks like the since the evaporator has a leak it will need to be replaced.
 

Approx 6/23/18
AC compressor is short cycling rapidly indicating very low refrigerant charge.
Added refrigerant. Also had to reset computer again due to compressor not kicking back on.
 
5/24/18
Karla reported the AC is blowing warm on 5/22/18.

Found that at times the compressor would not come on.  Freon charge is OK, but still added some. 
Jumped low-side switch connector and compressor still would not activate. Diagnosed EATC and got codes 024 & 025 (relating to blend door, as expected & likely irrelevant to this problem). Reset computer and AC  began performing properly.
To observe to see if this condition comes back.
 

5/19/18
Replaced LF window regulator with Dorman # 740-664 (Autozone, lifetime warranty).
While installing it
I can't tell what went wrong with the old Carquest regulator, but the cabling was all wrecked.

Found that LR window will not go down.  Motor seems to try, though does not spin. Window seems "stuck". Not going to worry about it right now.

Found oil level approx. 1cm BELOW the bottom of the crosshatch area. Added more than a qt of oil RK 10W30.
I need to check the oil more often.
 

5/11/18
LF window will not operate.
In 2016 both the motor gear lugs as well as the regulator had been replaced. I am guessing the top pulley broke again.
RockAuto lists the Ford OEM part number as 6W7Z5423209AA.
Ebay listed these alternate part numbers: F2AZ5423209A, F7AZ5423209AA, XW7Z5423209AA, 1W7Z5423209AA, 3W7Z5423209AA, F3AZ5423209A, F3AZ5423209B
I Ebayed one labeled as XW7Z5423209AA for Ford Expedition from Ebay for 37.99 which is supposed to fit. < CANCELLED that order since I assumed the pulley was the problem.

See 5/19/18 entry above.

Forum discussion/notes
 

5/5/18
RF tire continues to lose air faster than the others.
 
4/28/18
AC Compressor was cycling frequently and AC was not blowing very cold,
so added refrigerant.
 
3/17/18
RR window would not go down so removed and took apart motor gear assembly. Cleaned out broken plugs and replaced with stacked nuts. Packed with grease and re-assembled. Window works now.
 
3/3/18
Tire Pressures
Rcvd new tire pressure gauges from Ebay. They seem reasonably accurate.
Found that all 4 tires were way overinflated. Rear tire pressures approached 60psi while front tire pressures were 52psi.
Corrected rears to 35psi and fronts to 32psi just as I did with the Mercury Grand Marquis.
 
1/20/18
Changed oil and filter; oil = 5qts Rural King 10W30, filter=Motorcraft FL-820S

Removed and cleaned MAF sensor.
 

190,239
1/14/18
Checked over fluids & tires:
-All tires were quite low, so inflated them to 32lbs front & 35lbs rear.
-Oil was at bottom of crosshatch, so added 1qt Rural King 10W30.

I should change the oil soon.

Found that right valve cover is leaking oil around the top of it.
 

190,174
12/2/17
LR brake pads are down to metal on the rotor.  There are metal filings on the wheel.
The rear pads were last replaced 10/11/15 at 172,000mi (less than 18,000mi ago).  This indicates the LR caliper may be sticking.
Pads were originally purchased from Autozone "Duralast D674 organic".

Replaced both rear brake pads. LR inboard pads were metal on metal.  Autozone didn't want to warranty the originals, but gave me credit toward Duralast Gold DG674 Ceramic which supposedly would be honored under warranty in the future.  OOP cost $20.87.
Some metal filings made their way to bumper on top left area.
 

189,627
12/1/17
Amber ran into a curb at Regions Bank which sliced the sidewall of RF tire.
(RF tire last replaced 3/17/16 at 178,035mi).
Size: 225 60R16
Update 12/2/17> Karla replaced tire at Walmart with "Goodyear Integrity".  50,000mi warranty, $64 ("Left over from Black Friday special").  It appears to be a better tire than the Goodyear Viva 3.  189,635mi.

Amber backed into another vehicle destroying the LR tail light and pushing the bumper in and fender slightly.
Update 12/2/17> I replaced the LR tail light with used one from salvage yard ($25.73), and straightened the bumper and fender.
 

189,635
11/12/17
Blend Door Actuator issue & work-around.

The blend door actuator has been clicking over the last few days.
I could not get the condition to clear no matter what I did including numerous resets of the EATC and etc.
Sometimes the AC blow would go full hot all by itself and get stuck there.
I emptied the glove box, located the blend door actuator up and left of glove box, and with patience and persistence, I was able to unplug the connector to the BDA while it was in what appears to be the full-cold position.   The clicking has ended as expected and the AC blows cold.  The one side effect is that there is now no heat which shouldn't be a problem here in FL.
 

11/4/17
Found one blown bulb in center brake light assembly. Replaced both bulbs with generic brand Everlast from Ebay.
 
10/27/17
Checked over fluids:
Oil was almost at bottom of crosshatch on dipstick. Added 1qt. Rural King 10W20

AC compressor was cycling frequently.  Added refrigerant.

Topped off tires.
 

189,253
10/8/17
Swapped old front rotors removed 10/10/15 with new ones at Advance Auto under warranty / no charge.
Now I have a new set of Wearever front rotors (model YH145048) available to be installed if ever needed.
Advance Auto said this will be the last swap under warranty.

Replaced cruise control master cylinder pressure switch with the revised one ordered below.

Found the insulation around the AC evaporator disturbed as if rodents have chewed it up.
 

189,178
9/24/17
Alternator whining noise over the last few days.
Replaced alternator under warranty.  Swapped pullies at Autozone.

Cruise control intermittently working.
Determined master cylinder pressure switch is failing open (checked the inline fuse, and temporarily jumpered the connection, and cruise control worked.) Need new master cylinder pressure switch. 
Update 9/26/17> Ordered replacement from Ebay (SW-6351 / XW7Z-9F924-BA) which is apparently a re-designed edition.
Forum Discussion / Notes
 

189,139
9/4/17
AC Maintenance: AC compressor has been cycling alot so added refrigerant.

Filled tires as they were all around 20lbs.

Added 1/2 qt oil: RK 10W30.

Avg fuel mileage over the last 239mi has been 10.9. Reset stats.
 

8/21/17
8/19/17> Found LR tire (Firestone) is separating and badly deformed. Tire lasted almost 5 years & 52,000mi.  Removed tire and put on spare.  The previously untested used full-size spare fits.

8/21/17> Karla got replacement tire. Goodyear Viva 3. 
 

approx 188,745
7/14/17
When Karla ran car today, blend door actuator was clicking.   This was after the car battery had been disconnected overnight. 
EATC diag revealed code 125.
Later, EATC diag revealed code 024.
I got the clicking to calm down and stop.  It may continue to be a problem.  Use the cold and hot buttons on the EATC to calm down clicking.  I may have to figure out how to disconnect BDA.
EATC software version determined to be C05160C44D160
 
7/9/17
Checked & corrected all tire pressures, fluids, and exterior lights.
Added some R134a to AC.
Drove car: Runs & drives good.

Karla's been averaging about 11mpg over the last 900 miles or so. I reset fuel stats.
 

188,542
6/9/17
Karla tried to start CV after it has been sitting for a number of days, and it would just crank and not fire (confirmed via recording).
I found that fuel pump relay was to blame as the contacts had green corrosion built up around them.  While in operation, moving around the relay in its seat caused lots of clicking.  I found that this FP relay is not original.
Replaced FP relay with one of a same configuration that i had sitting in a box of electrical stuff.
 
188,305
5/25/17
Karla advised that on numerous occasions today she would turn the key to crank the engine and it would not crank.
When she came home, her tries and my tries to start the engine were fine. 
So far, I have not been able to duplicate the problem.
 
4/27/17
AC compressor has been cycling more so added R134a to make low side go from about 23-24 lbs to 32lbs or so (while running with AC on and idling).

Checked over all fluids:
Oil: Added 1 qt to bring above crosshatch.
Coolant: Good
Power Steering: Good
Transmission (eng off): Looks good
Brake: Good.

Checked all tires for air pressure: Had to add about 10lbs to all tires.

 

188,209
4/22/17
Rcvd used white wheel from Ebay and mounted used tire from 2004 MGM to the wheel.
I did not test fit on CV but it should work.
CV now has a full-size spare tire.
 
3/4/17
Added R134A.

Added nearly a qt of Rural King 10W30 oil to bring to top of dipstick crosshatch.
 

187,714
approx. 2/4/17
Checked over fluids & tires.
 
1/8/17
Periodic maintenance:
Checked all fluids
Topped off oil with 1 qt Quaker State 5W30.

Checked all light bulbs:
LF cornering light was burnt out. I broke part of the socket before I realized that a bulb retaining clip needed to be removed first. 
Also, I ended up cahusing the front of the lense to separate from the back. I glued it best as I could but it may leak water when it rains, and may need to be fully cleaned and re-glued.

Topped off all tires.
Found the spare tire had burst. Need to replace it.
Michelin Tex T125 80 R16 97M
Ford part number on wheel: E2AC-1A479-AB

AC Service:
The compressor has been cutting out at idle so added some R134a today. However, it is cold out and compressor still cuts out.  Need to check operation when it is warm out.
 

187,091
1/3/17
Karla advised car suddenly would not start in Manny's driveway.  Car finally started after 4 minutes.
No problems before or after event.
1/4/17> I checked car: It started and ran fine. No codes other than the usual P0156 (I think).

Car needs AC charge.
 

10/30/16
Adjusted steering box. 
I lost track of how much CW or CCW the screw turned.
At one point the steering wheel became fairly stiff to turn so I backed off the screw (CCW) until it was easier to turn.
Unable to determine if steering is better or not.
 
186,558
10/29/16
Flushed cooling system with tap water & refilled with tap water & green Zerex coolant spec ESE-M97B44-A  (UPC 074804002706) approximately 50/50 (exact blend impossible to determine). 

Last flush was 7 years / 103,000mi ago, and old coolant had a yellow/brownish tint to it, and there was lots of sediment in the recovery tank.
(Cooling system capacity = 14.1 qts from Owner's Manual
Therefore to fill to 50%/50% mixture, need 7qts water & 7qts coolant).
 

186,537
10/19/16
Replaced temporary Walmart battery with permanent Rural King battery
Group 65-72
Warranty: 3 year free replacement & 72 month pro-rated.
Manufacturer: Exide Industries
 
186,480
10/16/16
Re-adopting manufacturer recommended tire pressure.
Adjusted front to 32lbs
Adjusted rear to 35lbs
 
10/7/16
Car quit running while going up the Cape Coral bridge. Karla was stuck on bridge for 45 minutes.
Car eventually started.  Diagnosis: Poorly manufactured battery.  Positive post was LOSE. Replaced battery.  Poor Walmart warranty only pro-rate warranties this new battery beginning April 2013 instead of today.
 
186,315
9/25/16
Noticed the positive terminal of the battery has a lot of corrosion around where the post comes out of the plastic battery case.
Cleaned the area up and noticed the post seems to have risen out of the case.  Applied grease to this area to try to prevent any more leakage and to monitor.  May need to use Permatex or replace the battery.
 
9/17/16
Rebuilt transmission valve body replacing parts of valve assemblies with the Sonnax Sure Cure kit.
Installed new VB gaskets.
Replaced overdrive servo pin with Sonnax's pin with o-rings.
Noticed very fine metal filings in fluid that's only a week & 67 miles old.
2-3 shifts properly now.  There is no longer a need to coax the trans into 3rd.
Forum Discussion / Notes

Checked transmission temp sensor: Confirmed to be in-spec.
 

186,217
9/10/16 - 9/11/16
Took off transmission valve body. Found that 2-3 accumulator and 1-2 accumulators are rubberized and in good shape.  Springs are in good shape also.  Inspected valve body under thin plate.  Drained TC fluid.   Put it all back together (did not use new gaskets or clean the VB).  Replaced trans filter with Duralast.  Installed new transmission pan with drain plug (Dorman #265-813).  Refilled with new SuperTech fluid.

Everything works the same except the 2-3 shift got a bit worse.  Must remove foot from gas at 25mph for 2-3 shift to occur.

Forum post /  discussion
 

186,150
8/29/16 - 8/30/16
Getting windows tint redone by Suntamers (under warranty).
 
8/28/16
AC service:
AC compressor has been cutting out at idle again for the last few days
Adding via the static pressure method doesn't work anymore because the tank and car AC system are at equilibrium.
Added unknown amount of refrigerant to low side.  Brought low side from about 23 to 30-35 or so.
 
186,061
8/27/16
Replaced worn out idler arm with TVT brand purchased off Ebay.

Replaced LF shock with Gabriel Guardian #81446 (lifetime warranty).
Had to do this because when I jacked up the car earlier, an oily substance began leaking from LF shock so it is clear that it had ruptured.
 

186,061
8/21/16
Removed sloppy worn out pitman arm and replaced it with Duralast FA6038. Lifetime warranty.
This was incredibly difficult to remove, but with the right puller, an air hammer, and PB blaster, I got both ends of the old pitman arm seperated.
Left wheel is no longer sloppy. 
Forum discussion / notes

Noticed the lower tube that goes into the power steering pump is somewhat lose.  Fluid leaked from the joint initially, then it mysteriously stopped.  To observe for future leak.

The idler arm bushing needs to be replaced next.  Possibly use Duralast FB279. How to remove and install idler arm bushing?
Forum discussion / notes
 

185,999
8/20/16
Rearview mirror fell off due to age & heat. Reattached it.
 
8/17/16
Changed gear selector light bulb by pulling dash panel off.  Replaced with light bulb Sylvania 2723 (2723LL.BP2)
 
8/16/16
This car has changed usage and is now Karla's daily driver.  Formerly Jason's daily driver.
 
approx. 185,970
8/15/16
Purchased and install a replacement blower motor from Advance Auto (same one as last time - #35579) since Autozone does not have them in stock. This one does not smell electrical while being operated like the last one of this brand did, and it works good.
Previous blower motor had started to become faulty again. Speed was slower and I had to tap it last night & today to get it to started. This is the one I installed new brushes in. It seems as though only 3 of the 4 brushes are delivering energy to the motor.
 
185,836
7/30/16
Changed oil and filter; oil = 5qts Rural King 10W30, filter=Motorcraft FL-820S
 
Approx.184,850

7/26/16
 

Replaced left wiper blade because when driving fast, the old one lifts and leaves much water on the windshield.
Brand: Rain-X 22in.
Note: New wiper blade did not solve the problem.  Perhaps the wiper arm spring is weak.

Blower motor has been slowing down and is obviously failing.  Removed it and reinstalled the original blower motor which I had previously replaced the brushes on. It works good.

AC service:
AC compressor has been cutting out at idle again since the 7/23 trip to West Palm, so added about 15 lbs to static pressure, then an estimated 5 lbs while running for a total of an estimated 20lbs.  The last charge only lasted 16 days, however, I have made 2 round trips to West Palm and back during this period.
This charge may last only a similar number of days (or more).  May need to charge much more static pressure next time such as 30lbs.
 

7/11/16
LF window made crunching noise and pieces audibly fell to the bottom of the inside of the door.
Replaced LF window regulator as top gear of regular had broken off.  Carquest #740-664.
Used this video to guide myself.  Remarkably, it was not that difficult at all.
Used qty 2  1/4in  X 1/2in long bolts (regulator to door) & qty 2  1/4in X 1in long bolts  (regulator to window), washers, and nylon lock nuts.
 
7/10/16
AC Service:
AC compressor began cutting out when car first started again, indicating low charge.
Added 15lbs then 5lbs for a total of 20lbs to static pressure. 
Previous charge lasted about 6.5 weeks.
 
183,434
6/8/16
LF window suddenly will not go up or down, and is symptomatic of crumbled window motor gear plugs.
Replaced crumbled window motor plugs with 6 X metal nuts and greased gears.  The metal nuts are a good cheap solution.
Window works well now.

Noticed door panel is missing several plastic hooks which hold it to door frame, causing the door panel to bow when the door is pulled shut from the inside.  As a result, the door is cracking in several places.  Reinforced door panel to door frame using additional screws.  May need to use more screws in the future.
 

6/6/16
Rcvd replacement remote keyless entry labeled as OEM Ford 3W73-15K601-AA & programmed it. It works well. Threw away old aggravational remote control.  (Replacement battery CR2032 and it appears to take 1 battery.)
 
6/4/16
Discovered and glued cracks in both headlamp assemblies directly above low beam bulbs which caused water intrusion and multiple bulb failure.  Right headlamp assembly had prior repair to crack but that repair was leaking now.

Compounded and waxed headlamp lenses.

Removed a significant accumulation of leaves and other debris between AC condenser and radiator.

Removed an accumulation of leaves from windshield wiper box.

Regreased wiper mechanism.

Topped off coolant (a few ounces).

Topped off tire air pressure.
 

5/20/16
AC Service:
Compressor begun cycling when first turned on which I know means it is getting low on refrigerant.
Charged AC system approx. 1 X 12oz can.
Last charge lasted 7 weeks (2100 miles).  There is definitely a slow leak in the system. Need to get a R134a leak detector and find it.

 
181,340
5/10/16
RF window is starting to have trouble going up and down.
Replaced window motor's 3 crumbled gear plugs, and window works again.

The only problem is that during disassembly, the cable-wrapped center of the window  regulator popped out of the regulator housing.
I was able to get it put back together with alot of patience. Then i noticed the cable had gotten off of the upper door-mounted pulley. I fixed that.  Then I noticed a popping sound when raising the window each time.  I think the center of the regulator spun in an unknown direction when it popped out because the cable doesn't look straight when slack - it is mildly "kinked".  The noise appears to be the cable correcting itself by untwisting as the window rises, and the corrective untwisting is occurring against the metal regulator frame, making the minor pop sound.  So, I rotated the regular 4 times then 4 times more clockwise but the noise continues.   I lubed the area up well in effort to minimize the added mechanical stress to the cable.  The cable looks to be in excellent condition with no fraying.
Forum discussion / Notes
 
4/16/16
Changed oil and filter; oil = 5qts Rural King 5W30, filter=Motorcraft FL-820S
*Lots of leaked oil behind rear rear main seal.  Front seal where harmonic balancer is does not seem to be leaking badly.

Noticed that the brake lights flicker after I press and then slowly release the brake pedal.
Remove and inspected brake switch (FOAB-13480-BA).  The way the switch is engaged seems to be a flawed design.
Replacement switch is available at Autozone for $9 (F4841).
Forum discussion / Notes
 

179,832
4/2/16
Carb cleaner treatment for no particular reason other than preventative maintenance:
Sprayed about 1/2 can of Gumout Carb cleaner into throttle body, mostly through TB PCV valve port, stalling out car about 5 times. 
Then, reset computer.

Tried to setup a sort of indicator light to monitor when AC low side cutout activates, but found no simple way of doing this.
 

179,262
4/1/16
AC Service:
I've noticed over the last few weeks that the compressor is cycling more than usual, and indoor temp swings more.
Determined that system is low on R134a (low side cutout is activating), so I added 1 X 12oz can.  Compressor cycles less.
Note: Low side cutout activates around 22lbs.

Measurements After Adding 12oz R134a
85F
Inside AC Blow:  40ish F
Low Side:  30lbs
High Side: 195lbs
I hope this isn't now considered "overcharged" where the compressor screeches sometimes when AC first turned on (Sep 2015).  I hope a leak hasn't developed as a result of the Sep 2015 overcharge.
 
179,241
3/28/16
Keyless Remote control continues to have problems working consistently.
Opened remote and cleaned all terminals.  After putting a shim under one of the terminals, the remote control works consistently now.
 
3/26/16
RR tire continues to lose air significantly over the course of a week, so I pulled plug, and replugged using rubber glue. However, replug leaked.  Pulled this plug and replugged with a newer stiffer plug with rubber glue and so far it is holding.  Hopefully it holds and does not expel like a plug on a LeSabre tire did.  This hole may not withstand another replug; tire will have to be replaced.

Update 3/27/16> Found air deflated from tire.  Attempted to replug but tire began to expel plug.  Took car to Walmart and replaced RR tire with brand Goodyear Viva 3 (60,000 mile warranty - ? To confirm by looking at receipt).
 
3/20/16
Changed batteries in keyless remote control today (CR1616 X 2).
 
3/14/16
Replaced air filter. (49,500 mi since last.  Old filter was quite dirty.)
Installed Fram CA5056
 
178,427
3/10/16
When hot, engine sometimes runs rough when in drive at a stop  beginning today.
Note 3/11/16: Problem continues.
-Sprayed carb cleaner over plastic intake manifold to see if there might be a leak: Doesn't appear to leak.
-Cleaned MAF & reset computer.  MAF was not noticeably dirty.
-Air cleaner is filthy and needs to be replaced. (Rplcd 3/14/16).
Note 3/15/16: Engine hasn't run significantly rough in the last few days.
 
3/17/16
Replaced FR tire with same (Firestone FR710 65,000mi).
 
178,035
3/6/16
Front Right tire spontaneously blew out while in the driveway, which I witnessed from the garage.  The outer sidewall blew where there was a bit of a bulge previously.  Also, tire is balding on outer edge.  To replace tire.
Note: There is 1 stud on the FR hub that is nearly stripped of threads. I colored the stud head as well as the stud lug nut red to indicate that that lug nut goes with the compromised stud.
Update 3/29/17:
Replacement front studs are Dorman # 610-366.1
Replacement rear studs are Dorman # 610-368.1
 
2/13/16
Checked all fluids, lights and tires. 
Fluids: All OK, including oil.
Lights: All working.
Tires: RF and RR were low, as expected: Filled them up to over 35lbs.
 
177,506
2/3/16
Oil Low: Near bottom of crosshatch. Added approx. 1 qt Quaker State
Note: Temperature has been cold lately, and I've noticed in the past that more oil leaks when it is cold outside. 
 
1/20/16
Oil low: at bottom of crosshatch.  Added 1 qt RK 10W30.
 
176,415
1/9/16
While checking tire pressures, noticed that RR was very low still and RF was lower than expected.
 
1/1/16
Car had several episodes where it was running very rough in drive, at a stop.  Went away and came back and went away. Ran fine otherwise including acceleration.

-Cleaned MAF: was slightly crudded
-Reset computer memory

To observe.

Update 1/4/16> Problem has not resurfaced. 
 

175,580
12/17/15
Changed oil and filter; oil = 5qts Rural King 5W30, filter=Motorcraft FL-820S
 
approx. 174,800
12/12/15
Checked oil: Nearly a quart low. Topped it off.
 
12/6/15
Found the cause of the RR tire losing pressure: A leaky plug. (plug installed 3/15/14)
Replugged RR tire.  The plug is on the inner edge of the tire.
 

10/29/15
 

Replaced both windshield wipers with a cheap no-name brand. 
$2.50 each at Rural King.
They work good.
7/26/16 Update: The left wiper blade often leaves water on the windshield while driving.  It does not have a very strong spring.
 
10/19/15
Determined that the blower motor itself is the cause of seemingly random speed changes.

Took apart motor and found one of the brushed had worn so low that the wire to the brush had been cut by the spinning armature.
I am unable to repair this without new brushes, and I cannot find new brushes locally, so:
1) Ordered brushes via ebay from Hong Kong
(Measured brushes to be approx 7mm X 7mm X 13mm which is very close to what I ordered which is indicated as 31/64in x 9/32in x 9/32in).
2) To purchase a new blower motor from Advance Auto tomorrow (#35579) for $24.

Update 10/20/15> Replaced blower motor and now this problem is solved.

Update 11/27/15> Today I attached the new brushes to the old blower motor, put it back together, and it works.  The new brushes are very slightly smaller than the old brushes.

Forum Discussion / Notes
 

10/17/15
Checked oil: Oil was near bottom of crosshatch.  Added oil. A bit overfilled.
 
172,252
10/11/15
Replaced rear brakes with Duralast D674 (organic) for metallic caliper.
LR inboard pad was down to metal, and has scored the rotor.

Test drove: Brakes feel good.

Update 10/12/15> There is a bit of a shake above 50mph that has developed.  This could be the LR scored rotor.
 

171,992
10/10/15


Took apart front brakes and observed hand-rotation of each hub: Both sides spin freely with no grinding and there is no play.  The left side hub has a faint tick each rotation.  At this time I do not feel that the hub bearings are bad so I am not replacing the hub assemblies right now.  The noise was likely coming from the bad brakes.

Replaced the rotors (under warranty-Advance Auto) due to scoring from the old uneven ceramic brake pads. 
Wearever YH145048 2 yr warranty.

Replaced the old ceramic brake pads (under warranty-Autozone) with new semi metallic pads (Duralast).  Ceramic pads are no longer available.

In the process, spun a stud on the RF hub. Throwing away the lug nut, and to get a new one for it.
Update 10/11/15> The threads are bad no matter what lug nut is put on it.  It tightens to an extent then gets loose again. To eventually replace stud.

Road test: The front end noise is gone.

Noticed lots of squeaking and scraping coming from LR brakes.
 

171,970
10/8/15
Random AC Vent Blow Velocity Changes
For the last several weeks, it seems like when the AC fan is on high, it sometimes slows ever-so-slightly at seemingly random times.
Last week I put a voltage monitor on the leads to the blower motor, but did not notice any changes in voltage.

Today, I noticed the blend door actuator is not functioning as I put the temp to 90F and the blow temp did not change.

Found a Youtube video that outlines how to diagnose the EATC (Electronic Automatic Temperature Control) system.  Ran the diagnosis and it returned codes 025 (blend door faulty) and 115 (Intermittent Vehicle Coolant Temperature Signal - which likely occurred when I was testing the coolant temperature sensor).  Per the video, I reset the EATC and now the blend door actuator works again, but for how long remains unknown.  How this may affect the AC blow velocity is to be determined by observation over the next few days.

Update 10/9/15> Blow velocity still changes at times.

Update 10/12/15> Found napkins stuck to AC blower intake. Cleared the napkins.  I am convinced that this was the problem.

Update 10/19/15> Exact problem determined.  See 10/19/15 entry above.
 

9/8/15
AC Maintenance
For the last couple of days (since adding 12oz or R134a), occasionally when I turn the AC on, the compressor screeches and cycles off a couple of times.  I took measurements today and was alarmed that the static pressure was around 145 (low side was pegged) at 95 F ambient.  Also I was alarmed when the compressor first comes on it went way high - 430lbs (videoed). I think the system is overcharged.  
*Released some R134a from dryer.  Some green leak detector die and oil came out.  Brought pressure down to closer to 100lbs (videoed).
*Compressor didn't screech coming on (it doesn't always) and AC blew cold.

Final readings
Outdoor Ambient Temp:   93F
Inside AC Blow:                 49F
Low Side:                           33lbs
High Side:                          220lbs

And these readings are below the temp pressure chart I go by, but perhaps it is suppose to be.

The high static pressure realized earlier may be a bit overstated due to the condenser being close to the radiator and heating up after the engine was shut off.

Note: Determined that the high pressure cutout switch engages at either 435lbs or 450lbs, unsure which (likely 435lbs).  I hope that I have not stressed the compressor and condenser the 4 or 5 times the screeching occurred.

Someone in the forum advised that static pressure at 75F should be 60-80lbs.   I should check the static pressure after the car has had time to fully cool off (in the morning).
 

9/7/15
-Noticed electric fan was not working when commanded by relay to work. Removed from car and noticed "dead start spots" in rotation.
Took motor apart and it was packed full of brush dust. Cleaned out dust, and sandpapered armature pickup as about half were very dull.  Now shiny.  Put back together and fan starts & works 100% again.  May need to replace brushes next if there any further failures.
Numbers stamped on the fan motor: BAMS  052297  1911294  F6AH-8K621-AA  CW

Update 11/27/15> Removed fan motor cover and brushes in possible attempt to replace worn brushes.  However, the brushes I received for the blower fan are much smaller than the brushes used in the cooling fan motor.  The brushes for the cooling fan measure 6.5mm W X 10mm H X about 14mm D (1/4in W X 3/8in H X 9/16in D).  There are 4 brushes for the cooling fan motor.
Forum discussion / Notes

-Battery was weak starting car earlier today, and after fan work the car would not start at all even with the battery charger.  Had to get it jumped.
Replaced battery with Everstart Maxx for $130.  Need to return old battery to Walmart under warranty for full refund.  Replacement battery solved start issue.  Previous battery lasted only 2 years 4 months (28 months).  These are crappy Johnson Controls batteries.
Note 9/8/15> Went to Walmart with old battery, and they refunded me for orig battery, then performed an "exchange" transaction, advising that I don't get a new warranty - I still get 3 years from original date of purchase with puts free replacement to expire on 4/4/16, and 5 year prorated warranty from date of purchase of 4/4/13.

-When replacement battery was hooked up, the headlights were left on for a few minutes purposely, and then the car was started.  At that point the alternator made an odd racket for a minute or so.  After shutting the car off and restarting, the alternator sounded normal, and it produced normal voltage/charge.  It is as though the alternator "wasn't use to" the strain of a strong battery, temporarily.  To observe.

-Right 2 tires were significantly lower than the left 2, so added 4oz of Slime to each right tire.  Drove car a half-mile to distribute the Slime.  If this does not help, add 12 oz of water to each right tire to dilute the Slime and allow more coverage.

Note: Slime is causing an imbalance on the right side above 55 mph.
Update 9/19/15> Used a copper tube and extracted as much slime from both tires as possible.  To see if imbalance still exists.

-Topped off all tires to 35lbs
 

170,630
9/6/15
AC service
Initial Measurements                        Measurements After Adding 12oz R134a
Outdoor Ambient Temp: 79F          81F
Inside AC Blow: 38F                        38F
Low Side: 24lbs                                27lbs
High Side: 180lbs                             193lbs

NOTE 9/8/15> I THINK THIS WAS A MISTAKE TO ADD R134A. SEE 9/8/15 ENTRY ABOVE.

 

9/5/15
AC blow became restricted after running in park/idle and during a rain storm.
I believe the evaporator became iced up for unknown reason.
Update 9/8/15> I still cannot make sense of why the freeze up occurred.  If the system was indeed low on R134A, wouldn't the AC low pressure cut out switch have activated, turning off the compressor?  The most plausible explanation is that the outside temperature dropped, and there was so much humidity in the car from the rain, so it froze onto the cold evaporator.
 
8/28/15
Right turn groan.
Over the last few days, I have been noticing a groan from the front end at low speed and while turning right at times.

Update 10/6/15> The right turn groan continues.  Perhaps it is a failing wheel bearing on the LF because it really doesn't sound like the brakes could possibly make a noise like this. 
Per Rock Auto, the MotorCraft wheel bearing is F7AZ1104AC.
Forum Discussion / Notes

Notes: PARTS SEARCH
Recommended front bearing hub assembly manufactures (this vehicle was mfd 6/97):
-FAG
-Timken - 513202 - Rock Auto - $53 ($115 for 2, shipped) - 1YR
-National
-Motorcraft - F7AZ1104AC - Rock Auto - $68 - 2YR < Bulit before 3/97
-Duralast - DL513202 -AZ - $47 - 1YR ($100 for 2, with tax)
-CHOSEN PART: MOOG - 513202 - AZ Ship To Home - $56 ($119 for 2, shipped minus $25 gift card deal = $94) -3YR

Update 10/10/15> See 10/10/15 entry above.
 

8/23/15
-Changed oil and filter; oil = 5qts Quaker State 5W30, filter=Motorcraft FL-820S
 
170,043
8/7/15
Smeared leaky area of upper intake with RTV blue silicon after removing fuel injectors and spark plug boots.
Car seems to run better but will have to observe over the next few days.

Cleaned right 4 fuel injectors using a battery and carb cleaner. Sprayed carb cleaner into holes where fuel injectors plug into.
 

169,441
8/6/15
Discovered a leak on the right side of the upper intake manifold which is causing rough idle while cold & in-gear (the ongoing problem)

Forum discussion/Notes
 

           
8/1/15
LR window will not go up or down.
Replaced window motor's 3 crumbled gear plugs, and window works again.

Fixed left dome light switch. Ball inside switch had become dislocated.

Fixed and improved design of RF window switch as it had become inoperative more than a year ago. 
I had to superglue a plastic lever that had broken inside of switch.
 

7/22/15
Replaced belt tensioner pulley by removing belt tensioner and changing pulley.
 
7/21/15
Took readings of Coolant Temperature Sensors at different temperatures


Forum discussion / Notes

Interesting Forum Discussion1      Interesting Forum Discussion2

 

Noticed belt tensioner pulley is wobbling.
Forum discussion / Notes
 

approx. 168,000
7/12/15
-Removed and cleaned IAC assembly in hopes it will help with cold idle roughness.

-Checked oil: 1qt low. Added 1 qt.
 

7/6/15
Replaced LF tire with new FR710.
Did this due to fault in the old one causing bulge.
Rcvd 30% credit toward old faulty tire.
 
167,756
7/2/15
Noticed a pulsation in the wheel which increases with speed.

Update 7/4/15> Found that LF tire has a lump in the surface.  Need to replace tire.

Immediately reduced all tire pressures from 40 lbs to 35 lbs.
 

6/27/15
-Replaced front hs due to warpage and scoring (67,000mi since last replacement)
Since warranty-Wagoner brand rotors were not available, Advance Auto refunded me for those, then charged me for new ones:
Carquest Wearever Part No. YH145048 2 year warranty 

Update 6/29/15: The car still shakes when braking, though a bit less than before.  Either the rear rotors are warped, or the new front rotors aren't "true".

-Noticed LF tire is balding on the inner side.
 

167,531
6/12/15
Checked oil: Added 1qt to bring to full.

-Checking oil level at nearly every gas fillup moving forward.
 

approx.166,960
5/16/15
-Checked oil: Added a little perhaps 1/2 qt.

-Checked and topped off all tires to 40lbs. RF tire was significantly lower than the rest.
 

165,928
5/1/15
Digital display began displaying odd information.  This happened twice.  Each time, restarting the car put the display back to normal.
Forum discussion / Notes
 
4/10/15
-Changed all 8 spark plugs: Installed AutoLite APP104 (stock).  As required, did this while engine was COLD, gapped new plugs to .54, and torqued plugs to 15ft-lbs.
*Used WD40 on new plug threads to help them get started.
*Plugs were last cleaned and regapped approx. 36,000mi ago (#6 was actually replaced at that time).
*Plugs were last replaced approx. 81,700mi ago.
*Before changing plugs today, car has not been ran in approx. 40 hours.
*I was planning to spray a 2-second burst of carb cleaner into each cylinder through plug hole, but tube is not long enough to reach below threads, and I didn't want to dislodge any foreign material outside of the cylinder which may cause problems with the threads.
*Plug #3 had a large amount of caked buildup on the outer electrode, compared to the other plugs.
*After changing plugs: Car runs smooth, did not exhibit the rough idle-at-stop like it had sometimes in the past.  To observe over the next few weeks.
UPDATE 5/4/15> The car still has episodes of rough cold idle while in gear at a stop.

-Cleared computer codes (P0156 has previously been logged numerous times).

-Changed oil and filter; oil = 5qts Penzoil SAE 5W30, filter=Motorcraft FL-820S

-Coated both left and right wheel ABS sensor harnesses in blue RTV silicon due to cracking in rubber sheath.

-Reset computer via battery-disconnect.

-Checked tire pressures (40lb): The only tire that needed air was the RF which seems to always leak a little bit.
 

164,710
2/27/15
Checked and topped off all fluids & tires.

Note: Need to watch oil level as there appears to be some minor oil leakage from the front of the engine around the crankshaft where the harmonic balancer was replaced.
 

163,783
2/23/15
Harmonic Balancer replaced today after it began failing yesterday.  Forum discussion/Notes
*I purchased HB from Advance Auto for $60 + tax. It has a 1 year warranty.
*I had Napa do the labor.  It cost $128 grand total for the labor.
*Total cost of repair:  $188.

Update June 2015> Got a warranty-replacement HB and can use this as a spare if needed (Dorman 594-081). Keeping in trunk.
163,549
1/28/15
I would like to clean out the fuel injectors at some point.  Forum Discussion / Notes
 
1/26/15
Checked oil: Just below bottom of crosshatch.  Added about 1qt to bring level slightly above top of crosshatch.
 
162,602
12/13/14
Checked all fluids and lights.  All OK.  Oil still above top of crosshatch. The oil loss appears to have slowed/stopped.
 
161,132
11/22/14
Replaced both rear airshocks due to LR airshock leaking and age.
 
160,462
11/18/14
Car ran rough again this morning in 55degree temps, until engine warmed up. 

-Checked for engine codes: P0156 "02 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 2)" like back in January. Cleared code.

-Pulled MAF and cleaned with carb cleaner and a cotton swab very carefully.  The MAF elements did not appear damaged, discolored, or dirty.

-Pulled off air intake hose and noticed black gunky buildup on the walls inside of throttle body. Used a full can of spray carb cleaner to dissolve off much of the gunk, briefly running car multiple times in between cleanings.  Ran car.  No codes were logged.  Then disconnected battery overnight, and parked car outside exposed to tonight's low temp expected to be 47F.

-Also noticed throttle doesn't seem to "stick" anymore after cleaning the internals.

Update 12/17/14: This continues to be a problem.

Update 1/10/15: Sprayed nearly a full can of carb cleaner into intake while engine revving.

Update 1/24/15: Problem still happens on a regular basis.
While the rough idle was happening today, I ran engine in drive against a parking bumper, and disconnected each fuel injector until I didn't notice a change in engine speed.  The problem seems to be related to #3 cylinder, whether it be fuel, air, or fire remains unknown.

Update 1/28/15 ~162,700mi: Spark plugs were cleaned over 34k mi ago, and are 80k miles old, so ordered a new set of plugs. (Note: The P0156 code is almost constantly being logged now, but I believe it has nothing to do with the rough cold engine operation. )

Update 8/6/15> See entry for 8/6/15.
Forum discussion/Notes

 

approx.
160,300
11/15/14
-Replaced fuel pump under warranty - Firestone.
Sean, the store manager, said that he wasn't happy with the replacement pump due to float assembly looked bent.  Then he ordered a replacement - Motorcraft branded, which he said was the same as the other one only 3 times the price.
Replaced pump, though branded Motorcraft, is a Delphi according to Sean.  The invoice states "69131 Ford Electric Fuel Pump".

-Noticed that after replacement, fuel level showed 4 gallons instead of 5, so the replacement sender assembly is reporting closer to accurate.
 

approx. 160,200
11/14/14
Added can of B12 Chem to fuel tank. Fuel tank has approx 6 gal in it.
 
160,166
11/13/14
Noticed car surges for about 5 minutes first thing during these cooler mornings.
Cleaned MAF by spraying it with carb cleaner.
 
11/7/14
Misc rear-end work on car:

-Found that LR air shock is indeed leaking in several places-pinholes.  Smeared some blue RTV sealant over the area.  Also applied some to right air shock that does not appear to be leaking.  NOTE: This bandaid job did nothing to seal the leak. Need to replace LR air spring as it still leaks. Ordered a new set of air springs & o-rings from Ebay. Video to replace airsprings.

-Reinforced catalytic converter rubber support grommets with zip ties as the rubber is almost splitting.

-RR emergency brake cable it is severely chafed where it passes over the rear axel.  Wrapped cable in cardboard and greased the area that rubs.

-Noticed some light fluid leakage (fuel) is coming from wires that come out of new fuel pump.  Wiped area down and secured wiring harnesses ABOVE area of leakage. UPDATE 11/8/14: Found that fuel has dripped onto the floor of the garage under the fuel pump overnight.  Complained to Firestone and they have committed to replacing the fuel pump with a better quality brand.  Forum discussion / Notes

-Noticed new fuel pump has a label on it "Airtex E2222S".   This contradicts what I was billed for from Firestone, though I read that a lot of Delphi pumps are actually Airtex pumps. 
 

10/28/14
The LR plastic door latch bushing has crumbled and broken off about a week ago, and the door does not shut fully flush with the body now.
 
10/26/14
-Noticed LR center hub cap missing from wheel. 
 Within the last week or so I hit a pothole hard in the back and this is likely when I lost the hubcap.
 Part number is apparently F3AC-1A096-AA. (Update 10/28/14: Could not find lost hub on the street so ordered replacement from  Ebay for $14 grand total.)

-Also noticed the compressor for the air shocks is running more frequently.  Could the air shocks have been damaged?
 

10/25/14
-Changed oil and filter; oil = Castrol 5W30, filter=Motorcraft FL-820S

-Oil is being lost likey from rear main engine seal as the lower-rear is soaked in oil.
 

159,536
10/24/14
Front end has a dull knocking sound coming from it from time to time.  (Update 10/27/14> I removed a twig by the windshield wipers which may have been the cause of the sound.) (Update 10/30/14> Knocking sound has not returned. )
 

-Rocking body by pushing down over LF tire makes another sound.  Likely LF spring not seated properly against damper-?.
 

10/18/14
-Checked oil: It is approx. 1 qt low again (bottom of crosshatch).
 Approx. 1qt of oil disappeared in 700 miles.  It does not appear to be burning or leaking oil. Odd.

-Topped off tires to 40lbs
 

159,295
9/30/14 Checked oil level: Top of crosshatch.
9/28/14


-Topped tires to 40lbs. All tires were initially close to 30lbs.

-Checked fluids:
*Oil: SEVERELY low: Level was only 1/4in above tip of dipstick.  Added at least 2 qts.  Forum discussion/Notes.
  Engine sounds fine and no sign of metal filings in oil.
*Coolant: OK
*PS: OK
*Transmission Fluid: Checked while running: Top of crosshatch.
*Brake: Lower than MAX but OK.
*Battery Electrolyte level: OK

-Checked exterior lights: Found one bulb blown for center brake light. Replaced both lamps in the enclosure.

 

158,588
9/1/14
Topped tires to 40lbs.
 
8/27/14
Replaced both low beam headlamps with:
Xtune 2Pk Headlight Bulbs 9005/65W Super White 4200K --- Mod#:LB-XT-9005 UPC:847245033178
Though much whiter light, headlamps looks as if they put out less light.  Also, since these were so cheap ($3.99 / Ebay), they may not last as long.
 
8/20/14
RF low beam bulb shattered when rainwater entered headlight housing through crack on top.
-Repaired crack, buffed outside lenses, and washed, cleaned, and dried out inside of lense.  Replaced low beam bulb.

-Buffed left outer headlight housing.

-A little bit of difference was made from buffing lenses, but not much.

-Waxed both outer lenses.
 

8/16/14
Had windshield replaced by Safelite (insurance - free).
*Technician advised this was not the first replacement of the windshield. There was also broken glass in the lower recess on the right side under the windshield, together indicating a prior accident possibly (as I had suspected).
 
8/13/14
Noticed 8-10inch curved crack on right side of windshield. 
Scheduled for a replacement windshield.
 
7/22/14
Replaced burned out left lowbeam headlight with 9005 high beam headlamp (modified plug). Unk if 60 or 65 watt.
 
6/22/14
-Changed oil and filter; oil = Quaker State 5w30, filter=Motorcraft FL-820S
 
155,046
6/10/14
I believe on this day I ran the CV fuel tank completely dry.
Added 2 gallons gas from a spare tank, then went to gas station and filled up 19gal.
 
6/8/14
-Lubricated ignition switch under steering column with lithium grease spray. Key travel is smoother now.  While switch was off car, key travel was very smooth so any more problems with binding will likely be caused by ignition switch itself. Forum discussion/Notes

-Disconnected windshield washer fluid low-level sensor because it often reports that the fluid is low when it is not (annoyance).
 


-Topped tires to 40lbs. RF was a little lower than the rest. Filled spare to 60lbs.

-Checked fluids:
*Oil: Added 1/2 qt to bring to top of crosshatch
*Coolant: OK
*PS: OK
*Transmission Fluid: Checked while not running: Seems OK.
*Brake: Lower than MAX but OK.
*Battery Electrolyte level: OK
*Drivebelt: Looks OK

-Did not check exterior lights.
 

154,375
5/31/14
New fuel level sender may be over-reporting fuel level by 3 gallons.
Forum discussion/Notes

-AC Service
Outside ambient temp:92F
Initial blow temp: 44F
Low side pressure: 26
High side pressure: 215
Added approx. 8oz R134a
Final blow temp: 39F
Low side pressure: 27
High side pressure: 215
 

5/29/14
-Replaced fuel filter with Fram G3802A.  Grayish fuel came out of old filter which was changed 25,700 miles ago. 

-Replaced fuel pump (Firestone)
HP10097 (Apparently Delphi)
Warranty: Parts - 24mths / 24000mi Labor - 12mths 12,000mi

*After above repair, checked fuel pressure and it is back to normal of about 30lbs and steady.
 

approx. 154,329
5/24/14
Engine ran horribly after sitting for 1hr 15min.  It also stalled out last night and took about a minute to get started again.

Update 5/27/14> It happened again after sitting for about 20-30 min.  Tank down to 5g left.  Filled up tank adding 14g.  Car running good after fillup.

5/29/14> Problem continues and was severe last night.  This urgent now. 
*Problem solved with fuel pump replacement.

Forum discussion/Notes
 

154,213
4/20/14
Checked tire pressures.  All are at about 40 lbs except RF tire which is slightly low. Filled it.
 
3/15/14
-Found screw in RR tire. Removed screw & plugged tire.

-Topped tires to 40lbs. RF was a little lower than the rest. Filled spare to 60lbs.

-Checked fluids:
*Oil: Past top of crosshatch (overfull)
*Coolant: OK
*PS: OK
*Transmission Fluid: OK: Top of crosshatch.
*Brake: Lower than MAX but OK.
*Battery Electrolyte level: OK
*Drivebelt: Looks OK

-Checked exterior lights: OK.

-Lubed all door hinges, locks & catches, including hood and trunk.
 

151,751
3/14/14
Lubed the following:
-Upper balljoints - right & left sides
-Upper end of endlinks (lower end is unreachable) - right and left sides
-Pitman arm
-Right side lower balljoint: Cut 3 slits in boot and sprayed lube into it.
Squeel still persists (no change).

-RR tire very low so filled to 44lbs.
 

151,740
3/11/14
Right side squeel while turning steering wheel for the last several weeks:
My guess is that the right side lower ball joint is the culprit. There is no grease fitting on the lower ball joints so there is no way to grease them.  It is apparently starting to wear out after only 16,000 miles.

Update 3/14/14> I cut 2 slits into right lower balljoint and sprayed lube in (assuming this is where the squeel is coming from): no change in squeel.
 

approx. 151,000
3/2/14
Ignition switch getting harder to turn.  See 6/8/14 entry above. Forum discussion/Notes
 
1/30/14
Replaced MAF with used one purchased from ebay (exact part number replacement).
-Cleaned replacement MAF before installing.
-Erased computer error codes.
-Car runs/drives good once again.
 
150,286
1/28/14
Car has been running a little rough today and noticed it missing a few days ago when it was 40s out.  Checked computer for codes:
P0455 Evaporative Emissions Control System Leak Detected (ongoing code - nothing new)
P0156 02 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
P0171 System Too Lean (Bank 1) - O2 sensor detected lean condition in bank 1
P0174 System Too Lean (Bank 2) - O2 sensor detected lean condition in bank 2 (opposite side cylinder #1)
The above 2 may have to do with dirty MAF.

-Erased codes.
-Cleaned MAF sensor, but I broke off lower of the two MAF sensor elements. Need to replace MAF sensor. Ordered replacement used one from Ebay.  Car sometimes stalls out when coming to a stop now.
MAF part #s F6ZF-12B579-AA     AFH70-11
To observe and see if codes come back.

-Unrelated:  The switch/metal contact under the steering column that activates the audible chime when the key is in the ignition and door open has become dislodged or broken.  Unable to resolve this, I taped it and put it aside.  So there is no longer an audible chime when key is in ignition and door is open.

P0102 (MAF circuit) code being thrown, as could be expected due to the broken element.  Tried to resolder the MAF element but the posts will not accept solder.
 

150,233
1/19/14
-Changed oil and filter; oil = Castrol 5w30, filter=Motorcraft FL-820S
-Checked transmission fluid (eng off).  Seemed full.
-Cleaned MAF sensor (which stalled out car).
 
149,932
1/12/14
Topped off tires to 40lbs
(RF tire was around 30 indicating slow leak.  The others were close to 40.)
 
12/26/13
-Replaced alternator (under warranty) with same: Duralast 130amp DL3504-16-10; Remanufactured; lifetime warranty
-Also swapped drive pullley so new alternator has non-stock overdrive pulley on it.
-Tested alternator under full load, car in reverse parking break on, and hot:
Battery voltage dropped and stabliized at 11.8v
(This new alternator was purchased 12/17/13.  Old alt lasted approx. 65,000mi and 4yr 3mth)
 
149,195
12/4/13
Topped off tires to 40lbs
(All tires except RF were close to 40lbs. RF was towards 30lbs).
 
148,487
11/9/13
Coolant hose popped off and ran engine for several miles before refilling coolant with 50/50. No apparent damage to eng.
 
10/27/13
Topped off tires to 40lbs
 
9/21/13
-Installed new overdrive pulley onto alternator.
*Accidentally damaged alternator front cooling fins and front housing.
(The proper way to change pulley is to remove the alternator from car, use large channel lock pliers to hold the pulley, use an impact wrench with 15/16in socket to spin off the nut counter-clockwise.)

-Noticed that the crankshaft pulley (harmonic balancer) wobbles Forum discussion/Notes
Update: See 2/23/15 entry: HB has been replaced.

145,674
9/17/13
Battery problem continues: low voltage it still idle, and medium-weak cranking.
Had Autozone test alternator on car: Device showed PASSED.
Purchased an overdrive alternator pulley.
 
9/9/13
Battery appears to be weak again over the last several days as cranking has been a little sluggish and having low voltage condition at idle.
Measured alternator output (engine hot, revved, minimal electrical load): 13.5v
[9/10/13 Measured alternator output (engine cold, revved, minimal electrical load): 14.5v: Higher voltage/charge rate when not hot.]
 
8/24/13
Changed oil and filter; oil = Valvoline 10w30, filter=Motorcraft FL-820S
 
144,714
8/2/13
Replaced locking fuel cap with:
Duralast Locking Fuel Cap --- Mod#:5502 UPC:799304155027
since old one (Stant 11502) was almost not unlocking anymore.
 
7/20/2013 -
7/21/2013

Battery appears to be weak already but tests show it isn't.
Testing for a rogue battery drain while car is off: No high drain observed. 
Unk why battery seems week.
 
6/29/2013
Replaced windshield wiper blade assemblies with Anco 31-22.
 
142,724
6/27/2013
Cleaned outside windows and applied RAINX.
Cleaned inside windows.
 
5/26/13
Checked tire pressure: All within +- 1lb of 40lbs.
 
4/23/13
Cleaned MAF sensor with carb cleaner & Qtip, disconnected battery to reset ECM
 
4/6/13
-Changed oil and filter; oil = Quaker State 5w30, filter=Motorcraft FL-820S

-Greased windshield wiper motor clutch mechanism
(wipers would not go all the way down yesterday).

-Topped off tires to 40lbs
 

139,914
4/4/13
Replaced battery
Everstart MAXX 65S - 3 year free replacement (no prorate)
 
139,891
4/3/13
Troubleshooting charging system Forum discussion /  Notes
 
3/1/13
Checked over tire pressures, fluids & lights:
*Oil: 1/3 qt low; topped it off.
*Coolant: full
*Transmission Fluid: seems OK (checked cold)
*Tires: Most at 30lbs; filled to 40lbs
*Spare tire: At 30lbs; filled to 60lbs (spare tire wall indicates fill to 60lbs)
*Exterior lights: Found right rear right parking lamp out; Replaced bulb.  Remainder all working.
 
138,482
2/21/13
Rcvd and added Charge-It (UPC 813354007706) to each of 6 ports on the battery. 
 
2/16/13
Noticed that car has been cranking a bit slower for the last week or so.  I believe battery is starting to get weak. 
Since there is no pro-rated warranty on battery, ordered some additive to see if I can extend the life.
 
138,052
12/4/12
-Had right-side lower control arm, upper balljoint, and endlink installed by Napa.
Noticed maroon-colored grease was injected.
Old upper ball joint had a little play like LF UBJ did.  Lower balljoint: No play but no grease either.

-Replaced rear tires with Firestone FR710 (65,000mi warranty).
(One time balance, NO road hazard). 
Firestone insisted on putting the new tires on the rear, for safety (due to lawsuit against Goodyear).
Tires were inflated by FS to 30lbs.

-Alignment now that all 4 ball joints and 2 endlinks have been replaced.
Firestone rep Jeremy said there wasn't any play detected (so likely tie rods are good). 
Toe was way out.
Car accelerates and brakes without pulling or steering wheel movement.  However, steering seems quite sensitive again.

Changed all 4 tires pressures to new standard of 40lbs as defined 11/18/12.
 

134,960
12/1/12
Changed oil and filter; oil = Quaker State 5w30, filter=Motorcraft FL-820S
 
134,906
11/18/12
New standard for tire pressures:
Front: 40lbs (reduced from 44lbs since replaced very bad left ball joints a few months ago)
Rear: 40lbs
 
134,506
11/3/12
Checked fluids:

Coolant: topped off

Oil: Almost to lower crosshatch but in <1000mi time for an oil change so won't add any oil now.

All others: OK
 

134,051
9/27/12
Annoying scratching sound from steering wheel while turning.

Found a Ford sticker (F7AC-3F563-BAW) peeled off and rubbing.  Removed and discarded sticker.
 

8/25/12
Replaced left lower control arm (new ball joint), left upper ball joint, and left endlink: Steers much better; steering wheel returns now.  Left ball joints were badly worn, esp. lower.

Attempted right side but was exhausted.  Likely will have mechanic do right side in next week or so, then alignment (actually done on 12/4/12).

Forum discussion / Notes
 

131,625
8/11/12
Air Suspension not functioning at all. 
(RAS control module as indicated on part: F6AF-3B494-AB)

8/16/12> Replaced RAS control module with a used one from Ebay (Same part #). RAS now works correctly once again.

Forum discussion / Notes
 

8/4/12
Checked oil: Was alarmed to find it at ADD on crosshatch.  Added oil until about 1/4in above FULL.  Looked underneath and noticed no oil on bottom of motor.
 
131,016
6/24/12
Changed oil and filter; oil = Castrol 5w30, filter=Motorcraft FL-820S
 
129,682
5/25/12
Changed air filter (41k mi since last change).  Dirty but not filthy.
Installed Fram CA5056
 
128,855
5/20/12
Replaced fuel injector #6 which solved the problem.
GP Sorenson / #800-1060N / #12103 / UPC 745321124478 / 1 YR warranty / $64.99 Autozone.  It has a physically different design but from o-ring to o-ring it is the same distance and car runs smooth again.

Replaced fuel filter with Fram G3802A.  Black sooty fuel came out of old filter which was changed 69,000 miles ago.  There may be some water in my fuel tank.  Old filter has loose parts inside (new one does not).

Checked fuel pressure: a little above 30psi while idle.  When disconnecting the fuel regulator, pressure is about 40psi.
 

128,617
5/19/12
Car began missing and threw code P0306 (cylinder 6 misfire).

Troubleshooting:

1. Changed plug wire on #6: New wire on #6 made no difference.

(Initially I accidentally hooked plug 6 to fire from ignition #7 for approx. 9 miles before I discovered my mistake.  Although plug 6 was receiving fire from output 7, plug 6's fuel injector was later determined to not be injecting fuel, so no combustion was occurring, so no pre-or-post combustion would have been occurring, so no damage to valves or other components.  Just an additional amount of raw fuel was sent to catalytic converter for those 9 miles.) 

2. Checked spark of all ignition outputs.  Spark looks strong.

3. Removed, cleaned, and regapped all spark plugs (done while engine COLD, and torqued to 15ftlb.  Electrodes have worn down significantly in 45,617mi. Forum discussion/notes
Replaced plug #6: No change.

4. Checked continuity of fuel injectors and noticed #6 was OPEN: Likely the culprit.

Forum discussion/notes
 

128,595
5/12/12
Fully washed car & engine compartment.
 
128,346
5/8/12
Had 3 small cracks in windshield repaired by Safelite (insurance-paid).
The repairs look a bit more visually displeasing than the cracks did themselves.
 
4/5/12
Increased tire pressures:
Front = 44lbs *
Rear = 40lbs

* Ran just fronts at 40lbs, then 42lbs earlier in the week, and noticed steering is not so sluggish/stiff.  May need to decrease tire pressure as tires wear because steering may become too sloppy.  Prior to this, steering was very sluggish (see 8/25/12 entry).
 
127,000
1/28/12
Changed oil and filter; oil = Castrol 5w30, filter=Motorcraft FL-820S

Checked & topped off all fluids:
Oil: na (oil just changed)
Coolant: good
Transmission (warm not hot): good
Brake: good
PS: good
Battery: good
Tires: topped off
 

124,964
11/11/2011
Adjusted toe outward: Turned L & R tie rods 1/4 turn out.
Steering feels better - less stiff and more fluid return after turn (see 8/25/12 entry).
 
121,994
11/7/2011
Replaced front tires with Firestone FR710 (65,000mi warranty).
(One time balance, NO road hazard).

It seems that this car eats front tires. I did not get an alignment because I am still unsure what is causing the left pull while braking and I don't want to spend any unnecessary money at this point.  These tires may wear quicker than normal but I think they are better tires than the Goodyear Viva Authorities that were on there previously. The GVAs seems to bow inward (concave) toward the end of their lives, causing more wear on the outside edges of each tire.
 
121,806
11/5/2011
Steel belts are starting to show on LF tire.
(Goodyear Viva replaced 7/5/09 & lasted over 40,500 mi)

Need to replace front tires ASAP. 
 

121,783
10/19/11
Speedometer began changing erratically. 
Code P0500 logged (Vehicle Speed Sensor)
Found that insulation had melted back on VSS plug.  Insulated it using RTV gasket maker.
Forum discussion/notes

(Checked again on 11/5/2011:
 

121,135
9/25/11
Changed oil and filter; oil = Castrol 5w30, filter=Motorcraft FL-820S
 
119,786
8/29/2011
Adjusted toe back out 1/2 turn each side to bring it roughly where it was prior to 7/28 adjustment
since tire wear appears to be increasing and speed on slick surface causes front end to slide all over.
 
118,783
8/13/2011
Adjusted emergency brake star-adjustors based on this post
"Adjust the star adjuster (tightening the brake) until the real wheel cannot be turned by hand anymore. Then back off eight clicks."
Emergency brakes are marginally more responsive.

Reinstalled old original ride height sensor since the new one did not solve 7/21 problem.
 

118,185
8/4/2011
LF tire punctured likely by roofing nail in St. Lucie, FL. 
Tire driven on Flat for 1/2 mile, then plugged it.
 
approx. 117,700
8/1/2011
In hopes of correcting brake-pull problem, did the following:

1. Rebled front calipers.

2. Purchased and installed new front pads
(Duralast ceramic DGC659 - lifetime warranty)
(Original pads have not been changed since I purchased the car, and they looked mostly evenly worn.)

1&2 made no difference - car still pulls left when braking. 
Forum discussion/Notes

Forum discussionNotes - Can Worn Ball Joint Cause Pulling...

(see 8/25/12 entry)

Adjusted toe back outward 1/2 turn on both left & right tie rods.

Oiled exposed front-end joints.

AC Service:
Eng speed: idle
Outside temp: approx 90F
Inside vent temp: 49F
Low side pressure:25 (confirmed with 2 gauges)
Added 1 12oz can R134a
Inside vent temp: 40F

Installed new ride height sensor since
 

117,432
7/28/11
Adjusted alignment (self). Steering had been very wandery, sloppy, and touchy before.  From the looks of it, toe appeared to be "out".

Adjusted toe inward on right and left 1 complete revolution of tie rod each side. 

To observe responsiveness of steering.

Forum discussion/notes
 

117,220
7/27/11


Windshield wipers do not retract all the way down.

7/28> Repaired problem by removing cap on wiper motor head, and greasing internal clutch mechanism.

Forum discussion/notes
 

approx.
117,130
7/21/11
"Check Air Suspension" has been illuminating intermittently off and on over the last few days

Removed AS height sensor, and sprayed oil through bottom hole, then worked sensor back and fourth before reinstalling it.

Problem still exists.  Ordered replacement height sensor (F5AZ-5359-BA (WITH Sport)), and installed it on 8/1, but it made no difference, so removed it and put on the original height sensor on 8/13.

Forum discussion/notes
 

approx. 116,500
5/21/11
Changed oil and filter; oil = Quaker State 5w30, filter=Motorcraft FL-820S
 
114,608
5/21/11
Rotated tires due to uneven wear on RF tire (wearing heavily on outer edge) (Firestone tire).
All other tires are wearing evenly.
Rotated front to back, and back to front.
RF tire (Goodyear now) will probably start to wear heavily on outer edge.
 
114,608
4/24/2011
Changed differential oil.  Installed VictorReniz gasket and added exactly 2 qts Valvoline 85W140.
Forum discussion / notes
 
113,349
4/16/2011
Flushed brake system.
Filled with Prestone Synthetic DOT3 brake fluid.
Pulled a little more than a quart of brake fluid through 4 brake caliper bleed screws.

 

Checked AC charge:
Eng speed: idle
Outside temp: 85F
Inside vent temp: 49F
Low side pressure:34
High side pres: 245

Eng speed: revving (quarter against throttle idle screw)
Outside temp: 87F
Inside vent temp: 40F
Low side pressure:27
High side pres: 290

Unsure how to interpret this AC data other than AC is blowing cold.
 

113,078
4/11/2011
Replaced serpentine belt; original belt blew
and became completely shredded at corner of US 41 & Corkscrew Rd.
Towed to Advance Auto where I purchased and installed a replacement:
Dayco Poly Rib #5060975, 6PK2475.
Forum discussion / notes.
 
112,846 $28.00 0.00 1 Yr
3/18/2011
Replaced e-brake (parking brake) shoes with Duralast. 
LR material was worn and brittle.  RR shoe pad had completely separated from shoe backing.
I probably could have tightened the star-wheel a little bit more as the roadtest revealed that they are somewhat weak, yet adequate.
Forum discussion /  notes

ref: http://www.p71interceptor.com/brakesystem/ebrake/pictures/2005/

ref: ebrake shoes http://www.supermotors.net/registry/15812/53816-4
 

111,968
1/23/2011
Changed oil and filter; oil = Quaker State 5w30, filter=Motorcraft FL-820S
*Noticed hardly any oil drippage on underside of engine.
 
110,068
12/26/2010
Brakes lost power assist temporarily only in cold weather. Forum discussion / notes
 
approx. 108,000
12/25/2010
Brake pull to the left more noticeable in frigid weather. Forum discussion / notes
 
approx. 108,000
12/25/2010
Noticed burning oil smell while on trip up north in very cold temperatures.  Forum discussion / notes
 
approx. 108,000
12/20/2010
Replaced IAC valve with Duralast # TV222.
 
107,057 $53.57 + tax 2 years
12/19/2010
IAC Valve has begun sticking after car sat in teen temperatures overnight, causing poor idle.
(While in Columbus, OH during road trip.)
Tapping on the IAC motor unstuck the valve (temporary solution).

Forum discussion / notes.
 

106,815
12/4/2010
-Replaced failed Blend Door Actuator (YH-1757 / F6VZ-19E616-AA / UPC: 031508569713 purchased perhaps a year ago).
 

*Confirmed that old Blend Door Actuator had a chewed up gear.

*Was unable to pull heater box out so I could NOT replace heater core
(preventative maintenance only).

Forum discussion / notes.
 

105,126
11/13/2010
Changed oil and filter; oil = Quaker State 5w30, filter=Motorcraft FL-820S
*Noticed oil saturating the oil pan coming from top of or higher than oil plan.
 
104,447
10/7/2010
*All 4 tires balanced at Walmart.  Paid for LIFETIME BALANCING.
  This solved a significant shake between 45-50mph.

*"Flat Repair" on LR tire since it has slowly been loosing pressure. 
 

102,906 $7.50 X 4 $30
8/21/2010
*Replaced both front brake rotors.
(Wagner Brake Rotor Part No: BD125476 Warranty: LIMITED LIFETIME REPLACEMENT)
Forum discussion / notes.

*Plenty of life left on front pads, and all 4 pads are evenly worn.

*Noticed that one of the studs on the RF wheel hub is becoming stripped of its threads.
 

100,531 $46.99 X 2 Lifetime warranty on the rotors.
8/17/2010
Replaced both windshield wiper assemblies. (Brand "Anco" model "31-22" - 22 inch)
 
100,332 $10 total
8/14/2010
Changed oil and filter; oil = Quaker State 5w30, filter=Motorcraft FL-820S
 
100,126
8/11/2010
Odometer rolled to 100k
 
100,000.0
4/17/2010
Changed oil and filter; oil = Quaker State 10w30, filter=Motorcraft FL-820S
 
94,847
3/31/2010
Replaced both headlight lenses with OEM aftermarket
 
93,xxx
3/27/2010
Replaced LB headlamps with HB headlamps modified to fit the LB socket.
 
93,xxx
1/19/2010
Replaced locking gas cap with new locking gas cap: Stant 11502
Former locking gas cap became difficult to put on and put off.  This new one fits much better.
 
12/29/09 Replaced battery with Everstart MAXX-65S - 3 year free replacement (no prorated warranty) 90,379 -3 year free replacement
-9 year pro rated
12/27/09
Overdrive Off light blinks at random after thoroughly washing out engine compartment and underside of car, after trip to West Virginia.
Thinking it is related to the transmission temperature sensor because it returns to normal once warmed up, and there is no driveability issue.
(This stopped a few weeks later)
 
90,270
12/27/09
Changed oil and filter; oil = Quaker State 10w30, filter=Motorcraft FL-820S
 
90,270
12/18/09
Problem with climate control system - clicking noise.  Forum discussion / notes.
 
approx.88,000
12/15/09
Replaced both front Low Beams with "Road Shock" bulbs from Harbor Freight, # 98245. Super White
 
87,946
12/13/09
-Replace air filter: Fram CA5056
-Cleaned 2 sensors near air filter with electronics cleaner and compressed air.
 
87,891
12/12/09
-Seafoam treatment: Dumped entire 16oz can into PCV intake, while engine running and hot.
 
87,850
9/27/09
Changed oil and filter; oil = Castrol 10w30, filter=Motorcraft FL-820S
 
84,712
8/30/09
-Replaced alternator with Duralast 130amp DL3504-16-10; Remanufactured; lifetime warranty
-Determined that whining sound coming from under hood is indeed and 100% the alternator.
-Old alternator label: RE  F7ZU-AA  130A
 
83,632
8/19/09
Flushed yellow coolant from cooling system and replaced with 
approx 7.5 qts Prestone (green / UPC 797496871572 - Prestone Extended Life Antifreeze/Coolant - likely OAT Technology) + tap water.  
Mixture: 53% coolant, 47% water.
 
83,170
8/15/09
-Changed all 8 sparkplugs: Installed AutoLite APP104 (stock) @ gap .54 torqued to 15ft-lbs
Removed what may have been original spark plugs: "Motorcraft AGSF 32FM 79 Platinum"
-Added 1 qt oil to make full
 
82,978
7/5/09
2 new tires put on back: Goodyear Viva Authority; 65,000 mi warranty; speed rated (required)
Just standard balance: No lifetime balance or road hazard. (Actually, "road hazard" IS indicated on the work order.)
DOT: MDXOJC1R1509b
UPC: 069766209410
 
81,187 217.00 65,000mi
6/19/09
Changed oil and filter; oil = Castrol 10w30, filter=Motorcraft FL-820S
 
80,130
6/12/09
Added about 3/4 can of Seafoam to 3 gal of gas in tank and drove down to less than 1 gal.
 
6/3/09
Noticed pinging still persists in 2nd gear near or at WOT in hot weather.
 
6/1/09
Topped off coolant: Added about 1 qt tap water to overflow tank to make up for lost coolant
from thermostat replacement and to also "thin" out coolant a bit for better 
heat transfer efficiency.
 
79,388
6/1/09
Treated PCV intake with Seafoam (soaked overnight, burned off in morning),
 
79,388
5/31/09
Treated PCV intake with Seafoam (soaked overnight, burned off in morning)
 
79,331
5/31/09
Removed 195 degree thermostat, installed a 180 degree thermostat 
(Stant Superstat #45398)
 
79,325
3/27/2009
Replaced PCM with same part # PCM (F7AF-12A650-CE) 
from used vehicle VIN 2FALP74W6VX171740 .  
I Did this in effort to solve transmission problem that began 11/28/08.
 
76,019
3/8/2009
Changed oil and filter; oil = Castrol 5w30, filter=Motorcraft FL-820S
 
74,775
1/26/2009
EPC Solenoid in transmission replaced. (Did not solve the problem)

I believe transmission fluid was replaced at this time but I am not certain.
 

73,160
1/12/2009
Replaced MLPS (Manual Lever Position Sensor) on the side of transmission
 
72,560
12/13/08
Took car back to Firestone to address steering problem:
They put the new rear tires on the front, and realigned:  steering problem is now GONE.
 
70,965
Dec 2008
Noticed possible fuel pump noise.  It may soon be time to change the fuel pump.  
Forum discussion/notes #1 .   Fuel Pump Replacement BOK.
 
70,500
11/28/08
Changed alignment toe on my own to improve feel of car. 
Forum discussion/notes
 
11/28/08
Car began to shift wildly and hesitate/bog down at times. Retrieved codes from comp:
Code P1747 found.
Forum discussion/notes .  Forum discussion #2.
 
70,270
11/23/08
Changed oil and filter; oil = Castrol 5w30, filter=Motorcraft FL-820S; Next change at 75,000.
 
69,965
11/22/08
1) Replaced 2 front tires with FR710 (replacement of former FT 170c tires); 65,000 mi warranty
2) Wheel alignment (1 time); was out of alignment somewhat. 
This new alignment does not feel right (solved 12/13/08). 
 
69,954
10/5/08 Changed transmission fluid incld. torque converter; refilled with 12 qts Castrol Mercon V & new filter. 67,656
9/25/08 Replaced gas cap with locking gas cap that fits tighter. 67,228
9/6/08
Changed oil and filter; oil = Castrol 5w30, filter=Motorcraft FL-820S;  Next changes on the 0s & 5s.
Noticed moderately severe wear on RF tire, outer edge. Will have to be replaced soon & will need alignment. 

Forum discussion/notes.
 

66,118
9/3/08
Added 1 12oz can R134A to AC.
I did this since for the first time since owning the car I noticed this morning that the AC was not blowing very cold, but in the afternoon it seemed to perform better.   Pressures after adding charge: LOW side: approx. 45, HIGH side approx 245 @ approx. 90 deg ambient temp.  Blow was about 52 deg.
Update 9/4/08: Problem was that the temp control reset to 75F instead of staying at 60F due to disconnecting battery yesterday.   Forum discussion/notes.
 
66,000
9/2/08
Electrical anomaly occurred several times today:
Had several instances of brownouts in the car today while in gear & idiling.
Tonight: Cleaned & reconfigured battery connections for better contact including addition of another ground wire.
 
65,973
8/25/08
Check Engine Light illumination:
Code P0455 "EVAP Emission Control System Leak (Large)"
Reset code;  Forum discussion/notes
Update 9/4/08: Code has not reappeared.  Seems to be related to gas cap.  Putting it on tighter solved the problem.
9/16/08: This code appeared again a couple of days ago and did not go out. Cleared it tonight.  This seems to be an ongoing problem.
9/25/08: CEL illuminated a few days ago, and so I cleared it for the 3rd time tonight.  Also, replaced fuel cap - see 9/25/08 entry.
9/30/08: CEL illuminated again - code not yet read.
(1/23/2010> Continues to log code P0455. I'm not worrying about this.)
 
65,286
8/23/08 Glued RR tire valve stem, then discovered nail in same tire.  Pulled nail and plugged hole.
8/17/08
Lightbulb, tire & fluid check & top-off: Nothing significant noticed
except RR tire that looses air and has to be filled weekly - ongoing annoyance.
 
64,943
6/21/08
Changed oil and filter (first since my ownership); 
oil = Castrol 5w30, filter=Motorcraft FL-820S
 
63,384
6/18/08
Added approx 8 fl oz Seafoam (half can) to oil; 62,280: Removed PCV valve from valve cover and intook 1.5 shot glasses worth of Seafoam; 62310: Added remainder of Seafoam (approx 6fl oz) to fuel tank (4 gal fuel in tank).
 
62,255
6/3/08
Found fuel leaking from fuel fill tube at joint to fuel tank after fill-up.
Forum discussion/notes. - Project pictures
 
Forum Thread
5/31/08
Plugged LF tire in middle of tread where 1 inch screw was found and removed.
 
5/18/08
Replaced both HB and LB headlamps with brand APC Xenon 4000 deg Kelvin.
 
61066 To see if these really do have bad longevity.
5/17/08 Checked/filled all tires.  (All but RF tire were very low) 61064
5/17/08 Window tint installed by Suntamers.  Forum discussion/notes. 61056 $165 lifetime
5/3/08 Lightbulb, tire & fluid check & top-off: Nothing outstanding noticed
5/2/2008
NEXT OIL CHANGE DON'T USE FRAM
USE MOTORCRAFT
# FL-820S
 
4/27/2008 Replaced fuel filter with Fram # G3802A (The model that was on there before was unidentifiable.) 60,221
4/26/2008 Installed 40 amp circuit for power inverter & other electrical accessories (passenger compartment)
4/21/2008 speed control safety recall (05S28) fix performed at Coconut Point Ford 599XX Kevin Luma At Coconut Point Ford.  Service Advisor.  239-390-5724
4/21/2008 Noticed that when cold 2-3 shift goes temporarily neutral:  2-neutral for 1 sec-4.
Forum discussion/notes.

Forum discussion / notes (Revisited 8/18/16 @186k miles)

NOTE: Problem has been SOLVED. See 9/17/16 entry.
 

4/19/2008 Scoured and repainted rusty areas underneath car with Rustoleum Gray primer
4/18/2008 checked airfilter: very clean, must have been just replaced
4/14/2008 Purchased car from Chuck approx 59,600
4/14/2008 Oil is very clean, transmission fluid looks clean and proper; car is immaculate except for some engine compartment rust, and light coolant smell when hot
4/14/2008
INSURED VEHICLE
 
4/14/2008
Purchased car from Chuk
 
         
4/13/2008
Test drove car
 

 

 

 

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