Various advice:
-Get flush from AC supplier: AC Pro Power Clean and Flush
-D New compressor: scroll or piston? OEM or what manuf?  GET PISTON - BETTER.
-Blow out with Jimmy nitrogen
-D Oring kit - Replace orings (20 or more - get a kit) of hose unions. Coat orings in refrig oil.
-3 special orings for condenser (Ford only part)
-D New receiver/dryer.
-D New condenser OEM 3W1Z19712AC (Tascaparts.com)
"aftermarket ones don't fit properly. Been there done that so you don't have to go through with it."
-D Orifice tube
-D PAG 46 oil
-Special tool for AC lines fittings
-Vacuum for 2hrs at least or overnight better.

[Follow Rock Auto instructions for replacement]
 

11/13/23> This morning at cold startup, the startup rattle that I would normally expect to hear was a bit less then normal.
 

Update 9/13/23> Found tire still leaking at the plug site. Pushed existing plug into tire (couldn't pull it out).  Replugged it drenching the plug in rubber cement: Still leaking.  Plugged it a second time and it stopped leaking for now.  So, there are two plugs in the one area.  If it leaks again I will probably need to get an internal plug/patch or a new tire.

Update 1/11/24
Found tire leaking here again.
 

Another google resource: "The C2000 with Ford means that the car's ECU has tried to open the EGR valve but it cannot get enough exhaust gas into the engine. Some of the issues you'll typically find is rough idle, poor fuel economy, and lack of power in acceleration."

Another Google resource:" C2000 Code Meaning :
C: OBD-II Diagnostic Chassis (C) Trouble Code For Engine
2: Fuel And Air Metering (Injector Circuit Malfunctions Only)
0: Injector Circuit Malfunction - Cylinders
0: Cylinder 10 Contribution/balance Fault
0: Exhaust Gas Recirculation Sensor B Circuit High

The oxygen (02) sensors on your car measure the oxygen in the exhaust to determine how rich or lean the ratio of fuel and air are in the cylinders. Optimizing this mixture means better fuel economy and fewer exhaust emissions.

C2000 OBD-II Diagnostic Chassis (C) Trouble Code Description
C2000 engine trouble code is about Exhaust Gas Recirculation Sensor B Circuit High. Injector Circuit Malfunction - Cylinders and Cylinder 10 Contribution/balance Fault causes most of code C2000.

Reason For C2000 Code
The reason of C2000 OBD-II Engine Trouble Code is Injector Circuit Malfunction - Cylinders.
C2000 DTC reports a sensor fault, replacement of the sensor is unlikely to resolve the underlying problem. The engine error is most likely to be caused by the systems that the sensor is monitoring, but might even be caused by the wiring to the sensor itself."

I cleared the code while driving, and noticed no issue with CC, TC, etc.  Not sure what to think about C2000.
 

The B code is a bit strange. I wonder if it is indicative of issues with my burnt wiring harness near the transmission.

There were no drivability issues to report.
 

7/17/23> Received and installed the new Intake Vent Hose Pipe.
 

Steering
With engine off, I had Karla rock steering wheel left and right: There is a knock, and there appears to be some play in the central/driver's side rack & pinion mechanism itself.  The noise does not appear to be coming from a tie rod joint.
 

FS10 type
The FS10 type seems to have a different front clutch than the one on my car. My car seems like it needs the scroll type.

I found that the FS10 type has refrigerant connections in the very back on top where my car has the refrigerant connection on top, longways down the body of the compressor.

There is also an option to go with an upgraded "piston type" but I am not going to go that route, and just stick with scroll at this point.

JPOST

Per this capacity guide.  This car's AC system takes: 7.5oz PAG46 lube, 38.0oz R134A

General Compressor Installation guide.

The Motorcraft brand compressor:
UPC: 031508471924
Model: YCC-151
Part: 5W1Z-19V703-AA

Firestone: Replace compressor, evac, recharge $873.11 (best case scenario)
$1200 if compressor has already started to throw debris (implied condensor & dryer replcment).

Update 7/12/23> Added a can of 2oz PAG oil, and 1oz R134A to system to see if the oil would help quiet the compressor noise, but it did not.  (183,937mi)
 

Wait until 190k for next oil change.
 

Update 1/17/23> Coolant level seems fine after car cooled off and I opened cap. It is right at bottom of full cold range.  I topped off coolant to the top of the full cold range.

Topped off power steering fluid from LOW to MAX level with Mercon ATF (not Mercon V).
 

Due to noise I keep hearing I decided to change out the idler pulley: No change - the noise is still there.
Then I changed out the tensioner/pulley assembly, and the noise went away.  The old tensioner's pulley was rough to spin and vibrated a bit, so clearly this was the noise culprit.
 

Upd 8/16/22> Suspecting the alternator (from Amazon) pulley to possibly causing the squeak and belt damage, I removed the pulley and put the pulley on from the old faulty presumably OEM alternator. 

Update 8/17/22> The squeak did NOT go away as after changing the alt pulley, as evident tonight driving home.  The very wet oily substance continues to appear on the belt's front several grooves.
I washed the entire front part of the engine down.  We'll see where oil reappears the fastest.

8/18/22> Drove 22 miles to work: No oil on belt and no squeak at conclusion of drive. Coming home the squeek was present.
 

8/18/22> Rcvd and installed brand new Motorcraft serpentine belt. 174,071
Also rcvd and storing Motorcraft belt tensioner & grooved idler pulley in trunk along with old undamaged belt. The torn Dayco belt went into the garbage.
 

6/1/22 evening> Added approx 2.1 gal old boat fuel to car. 2.1/19 = 11%
11% +28% = 39% boat fuel now in MGM fuel tank.  We'll see how car runs tomorrow.

6/2/22 evening> Added approx 2.1 gal old boat fuel to car. That's 11%.
11% +39% = 50% boat fuel now in MGM fuel tank.
Driving home today I noticed "maybe" a slight decrease in acceleration performance. It was really hard to say.

6/3/22> I can't say the car has lost any power.   It runs and accelerates fine.
evening> Added approx 2.3 gal old boat fuel to car. That's 12%.
12% + 50% = 62% boat fuel now in MGM fuel tank.

6/5/22 evening> Added approx 0.75 gal old boat fuel to car. That's 4%.
4% + 62% = 66% boat fuel now in MGM fuel tank.

6/6/22 evening> Car continues to perform fine.
Added approx. 0.7 gal old boat fuel to car: 4%
4% + 66% = 70% boat fuel no wow in MGM fuel tank.

 

Spun the rear tires, checking particularly the RR tire looking for any signs of tread separation: It still looks good. Both rear tires don't look bad in any significant way, and, like the front tires, appear to be slightly out-of-round also.

Probably should get a 4 wheel balancing, or let the rear tires wear out (another few thousand miles probably), replace them, and get a balancing at that time. 
 

Measured battery voltage with old alternator vs. new.
With the old alt, while loaded up at idle, battery voltage dropped to 11.96.
With the new alt, voltage was higher (12.3 or 12.4 IIRC).

The dash lights no longer flicker with this new alternator.

Can keep the old alt as emergency spare, and possibly rebuild it with a rebuild kit.

Days Later> The lights go dim a few times at startup, as if the alternator is intentionally cutting out for a second each time.  This alt seems faulty.  Getting warranty-replacement. See Notes- file.
 

Alternator makes a whining sound when main cable is connected.  I think the alt is going bad.  It is probably the regulator, but looking at the winding there seems to be chips on some of them so it is probably best to replace the entire alt with a new one.
It appears to be a Ford 4G alternator.  The label on the alt is 3W1U-AB GCB dated 1/23/04.

Ordered replacement New PG-8313 alternator from Amazon for about $102 + tax.

2/10/22 Update> See 2/10/22 entry above.
 

1/6/22> Water Pump Groan
Noticed a whine at certain RPMs.  Removed the serpentine belt, and rotating the water pump pulley reveals a noise and also resistance.  Clearly the bearing is going bad.  No leak noticed yet.  Rotated the other pulleys and none have noise or resistance (the alt had a light occasional squeak).
1/7/21> Ordered Motorcraft PW464 from Rock Auto. Grand total $60.
Notes: Pulley bolts = 10mm
Pump housing bolts = 13mm
Tightening torque for both: 18ft-lbs

1/15/22 167,456> The water pump made little squeeling noise while cold.  To confirm it is still a problem, warmed up car then spun pump and indeed it was making more noise and had more resistance.

I replaced the water pump.  It was fairly simple.  I used a block of wood and a big mallet, and I placed it against the shaft of the pump and knocked it loose with a couple of blows.
I sanded and wire-brushed the inside of the engine water pump recess and rinsed it with a hose.
Refilled and topped off coolant.  Added about a quart or two of new 50/50 coolant.
 

Also I cleaned the orange caliper piston seals/boots using spray silicon which should be OK for the rubber seals/boots. I also sanded some surface rust on the caliper piston perimeter.

On both sides, the outer pads were worn much more than the inner pads.  The left side was almost out of pad material so the wear was nearly symmetrical but obviously the right side had worn just a little bit more.

Additionally, it was found that metal filings were sticking to the paint on much of the rear half of the right side of the car, around the back, and on the trunk lid.  I washed the car and extensively used rubbing compound along these areas. I think I got most of it off, hopefully.
 

Drained approx 6qts transmission fluid.
Dropped the pan.  Pan condition:  Magnet was quite dirty with metal filings & sludge.  Fully cleaned the pan with water and soap. Dried it with air gun and hair dryer.
Replaced the transmission filter - Durolast.
Reinstalled pan with same gasket, torquing pan bolts to 11ft lbs (because some of the bolts showed leakage after fill), and added 5qts of new SuperTech Mercon V.  It still seems overfull once again  but I am not concerned.
 

Note: I am thinking the small plastic drive gear inside the BDA is missing teeth like what happened on the CV. 
I am thinking to identify the wire that powers the BDA and disconnecting it like I did with the CV.
Wire color research:
The 97 CV wires going to the BDA connector are colored: purple, wht on red, yellow, and possibly red.
A 2003 MGM picture of connector shows BDA wire harness connector colors: white on red
unk, Possibly white on purple, dark blue on light blue, green on yellow, green on yellow, blueish or green on red. 
A 2006 wiring diagram indicates: YEL/LT GRN, DK BLU, RED/WHT, BLK, VIO.
It also indicates that the black and violet wires are power for the motor that drives the BDA.
All 5 wires seem run back to the EATC.  At the EATC if I disconnect BLK (#13) or VIO (#11) or VIO(#26), then that should cut power to the motor drive.  There's a 2nd VIO but that should be for AC compressor.  But if I do cut the wire and somehow the blend door moves "on it's own" if it is even capable of that, it won't return without hooking up the wire.
 

Changed oil and filter; oil = 5+1=6qt Rural King 5W20 Full Synthetic; filter=Motorcraft FL-820S

Cleaned out wiper compartment which was packed with leaves from trees at work.
 

Differential bolt tag:
V026M
(2?) 73 88 4A27
Door sticker "Axel" code is "C8" which apparently means 2.73 open differential.
The 88 I believe means 8.8inch ring gear (which is important for the proper size differential cover gasket).

Found a good re-useable differential gasket: Lube Locker LLR-F880 will fit my 8.8inch.
(Apparently only RTV has been used by factory for many years).
Ordered  brand Lube Locker LLR-F880 from Amazon

The owners manual calls for "Motorcraft SAE 80W-90 Premium Rear Axel Lubricant 5.0 pints"

Use a 3/8in rachet to loosen the axel lube fill plug.

Jacked up car. (152,465mi)
-Ran car in 2nd gear with wheels off the ground and could not reproduce sound.
-Checked rear wheel "play": Both rear wheels have slight in-out play as I believe should be expected. Not other "play" noticed.
-Checked for signs of axel lube leakage: No signs of leakage at axel wheel bearings. There has been some leakage around bottom of differential cover.
-Checked lube level: Removed fill plug - Lube level is full. Wiped grease off of fill plug magnet.
At this point I am not concerned about axel bearings or the differential.
 

Acceleration was poor after this repair likely to computer-learned condition.  Disconnected battery once, then again but this time shorted the terminals. After maybe 45 minutes I reconnected the battery, started car, and blend door actuator started acting up. It was stuck on heat. Ran an EATC diag and got code 024 (IIRC).  Had to disconnect battery again and reconnect and I think it finally calmed down and cold air was blowing.
 

Changed oil and filter; oil = 5+1=6qt Rural King 5W20 Full Synthetic; filter=Motorcraft FL-820S>
This was after car had been driven. Oil was very soupy and had quite a bit of grit on the bottom of drainpan.
 

Stored the original belt, which is still in good shape, in the trunk to use as emergency spare.
 

Unable to find just fan blade locally. Replaced entire fan assembly with Dorman 620-120  purchased from AZ grand totaling $192 (to return).
Alt:  (OEM cross ref: 3W1Z8C607AC, 3W1Z8C607BD, 3WIZ8C607BA )
Rock Auto - grand total $117
Amazon $125
Ebay $99, but commonly $125
Best price: Ordered from Rock Auto grand totaling $112 & also has limited lifetime warranty.

Forum Discussion/Notes
 

First noticed 5/27/20, there is a small exhaust leak again at the union between the right mainifold and cat pipe. Purchased 2 new exhaust flange gaskets Felpro 60924 (AutoZone) & Permatex Ultra Copper #81878.

Decided to take apart both mainfold-to-catpipe unions.  Noticed the nuts on the right studs were LOOSE.  The gasket flaked off the right side in multiple pieces. The left side was still intact but degraded. Went to Autozone to try to find a better donut type gasket but did not. 

Decided to try to use washers & lock washers to help keep nuts tight but did not have enough stud length to get nuts started so abandoned that. Anyway, the lockwashers likely won't help since I believe the degraded gasket material is responsible for the gap to no longer be tight, the leak to occur, and the nut to then be loose.

Used a wirebrush and wire wheel to clean up both sides of each mating surface.  Vacuumed the holes. Cut the new gaskets in a circle and applied Permatex to all sides of mating surfaces.  By the time I was able to get nuts started the Permatex had set. I tightened the nuts very tight. Confirmed no leaks afterwards by spraying water from a hose on the unions and revving the engine.

Tips for next time because this was a bit of a cluster and will likely leak again in a couple years:
-If a new exhaust leak develops, first try tightening the union - it just may seal back up.

-Use a second set of jack stands to hold each cat pipe as they are heavy and only supported on left side by a wire.

-Do not attempt to use lock washers again or any additional hardware on the studs again.

2) Changed oil and filter; oil = 5qt Rural King 5W20 Full Synthetic + 1qt RK 10W30 non-synthetic;  filter=Motorcraft FL-820S

Decided to clean battery connections. Both positive as well as negative were gunked up with corrosion.  Thoroughly cleaned them, and electrical system seems better now.

Took apart area below windshield wipers and vacuumed & blew out an enormous amount of packed leaves.  This is the first time since owning the car I have cleaned out the leaves from the trees at work.
 

Need to get 1 more qt of water into system to thin to 50/50, but I doubt it is critical.
 

Purchased and installed Ford Racing M9424P46 Intake Manifold with Fel Pro gaskets.  Changed out the Intake Manifold.  Ran car without belt - it ran good.

24 hours after applying Permatex Ultra Blue #81724 around all water passages, I added coolant and ran car - no leaks.

The old intake manifold had compromises around t-stat, and that is why there was a coolant leak.

See also 2/21/20 entry below.

Update 5/11/20> This repair is holding well, and there are no apparent coolant leaks.
 

Forum Discussion/Notes

1AAuto How-To

1AAuto Replacement Part $175 free slow shipping.
Complaints about accessing the spark plugs after this is installed.

(See also Notes- file in Vehicle project folder)
(See also 3/1/20 entry above)

Note: There are several COP & fuel injector plugs which no longer snap locked on, so if any misfires occur, make sure all 16 plugs are fully seated.
 

Update 2/17/20> The compressor runs more than often, and I inspected right and left air springs: Right has many cracks in base, and left has a few cracks in base. I am going to conclude that a new set of air springs should solve the problem.
Ordered a new set of airsprings & o-rings from Ebay branded "maXpeedingrods".
These were almost the cheapest I found at $59 for the pair.   Video to replace airsprings.

 

Drained approx 4.5 qts transmission fluid and replaced with new 5 qts SuperTech Mercon V.
Fluid level is now way way above top of crosshatch. Hopefully this isn't going to be a problem.

Cleaned the MAF sensor.
 

Need to determine best PSI for rear tire wear. I am thinking 30psi.

New standards for tire inflations:
Front: 32psi
Rear: 30psi
 

Checked oil level: Good

Checked tire pressures: Topped off.
 

Checked the air filter. It was not seated properly and somewhat deformed. This grit in the oil is likely sand slipping by. Replaced air filter with proper fitting new Fram Extra Guard CA5056.

Update 9/29/19 (135,334mi)>  I cut open the old oil filter but did not find any grit.  Concerned for the possibility of additional grit still remaining in oil pan,  I ran the engine then immediately re-drained the oil in a clean catch pan.  I found no grit as I put the oil back into the engine. We'll see how the oil looks in 5000mi.
 

Fluids & tires check:

-Battery Water Level: pass
 (positive terminal already has some corrosion starting again)

-Battery Load Test: not checked

-Brake Fluid Level: pass

-Coolant Level: pass

-Power Steering Fluid Level: topped off

-Serpentine Belt Inspection: not checked

-Tires Air Pressure: Topped rears to 35psi & front to 32psi.

-Tires Visual Check: pass

-Transmission Fluid Color & Level: Not checked

Due to ongoing shaking at certain speeds, jacked up the front and spun the tires: They are a little imperfect but not significantly.

Evening> Fully cleaned battery top, posts, and terminals. 
Also noticed a gap exists around the positive battery post where presumably some acid has been splashing up and out, causing the corrosion  Used Plumber's Goop in effort to seal this area.
Car cranks and starts fine now.
132,721 mi
 

Front right tire is balding. Need 2 front tires.
LF=GoodyearViva3(5/18/17-99,352)
RF=GoodyearViva3(3/27/17-97,100)

Walmart CC
Goodyear Viva 3 60k $66 each, no credit for early wear.
Douglas all season 45k  $54 each.
 

Also sprayed a lot of carb cleaner down the intake on and past the throttle plate.

Cleaned the MAF sensor.
 

Forum Post / Discussion
 

Fluids & tires check:

-Battery Water Level: pass
-Battery Load Test: Passed, though almost on the weak side.
Battery had some corrosion on the positive terminal. Wiped it off and applied lithium grease spray to both terminals.

-Brake Fluid Level: pass

-Coolant Level: pass

-Power Steering Fluid Level: pass

-Serpentine Belt Inspection: pass.

-Tires Air Pressure: Topped rears to 35psi & front to 32psi.
-Tires Visual Check: pass. All tires are wearing evently>
 Front tires will likely need to be replaced in the next 6 months as they are quite worn.

-Transmission Fluid Color & Level: pass

Removed and spray greased ignition switch & linkage.
 

-Topped off coolant overflow tank with perhaps a pint of 50/50. Coolant seems to be slowly getting lost lately.
 

Old oil was quite dark.
I should probably get back into the habit of changing the oil every 5,000mi again.
 

Checked all other external lights: All working.
 

After removal of the old pipes, looking through the downstream end I could not see any CC material  in the downstream cats, and no material fell out of the pipes. Material must have been blown out of CCs.  While pipes were off, I used a shop vac to check Y pipe for blockage. I also used a piece of romex cable to poke down the Y throat. No blockage was detected whatsoever. The pieces must have made it to the muffler and settled there, or got blown out of the tail pipe.

Replaced upstream oxygen sensors (as preventative maintenance):
2 X MOTORCRAFT DY1401 oxygen sensors
Purchased from RockAuto.com; 24 month warranty.
Loaned Autozone oxygen sensor tool 27110 which was invaluable. 2 of the 3 pieces of that tool were needed to get the left upstream O2 sensor off the manifold.

Re-installed original downstream oxygen sensors (since they do not impact engine performance).

Anti-seize was applied to all oxygen sensors and related bolt assemblies.

Broke-in CCs by running car for about 5 minutes at idle, then 2 minutes at 2k-3k RPM. Shut off to let cool down using fans to cool CCs. Then road-tested it.

OIL LEAK: I noticed that the front of the oil pan seems to be leaking just a little bit.
 

Forum Discussion / Notes

Unable to knock blockage loose with mallet so drilled 5 X 1/4in holes in side of RR CC to help with exhaust flow.  Car is loud now.
 

Removed and cleaned MAF sensor.
 

I should change the oil soon.
 

I ended up improvising a repair by drilling 2 holes and screwing the mirror to the swivel stalk.   Therefore, the mirror will no longer gracefully swivel. 

Compound easily corrected the driver's door scuffs.

The mirror shakes slightly due to wind pressure at higher speeds.  It is mildly annoying.

The left mirror does not defrost (as expected), and is an annoyance with regard to the morning dew.

Update 12/21/17
I was able to re-insert the spring inside the upper mirror housing, despite there being broken plastic pieces that came off the spring.  The mirror seats perfectly just like it did previous to the accident, and it swivels back with pressure like it should.

I was able to solder a wire to the surface of the mirror where the connector was ripped off.
Between the contacts it measured 180 ohms.  I am not sure if this is what it should measure.
That would mean less than 1 watt of heat is sent to the mirror which seems very low.
It is possible that part of the mirror wont heat, and part will heat, due to how I soldered it. May need to re-solder.  To check to see if indeed it heats enough to remove the morning dew.

Update 12/22/17> Tested the electric defrost system: The left mirror is not heating up. The right mirror got hot pretty quickly.  I likely need to replace the left mirror. Number printed on the back of the mirror itself: G57014368CHABC. This number does not google to anything.
On Ebay found a part number that seems like it might work: 1W7Z17K707AB.

Update 12/24/17> Rcvd mirror ordered from Ebay. It looks identical to the one taken off. New mirror measures 12 ohms on the heater leads. That's more like it. Installed and tested it: Successful replacement.

Update 12/25/17>  I noticed the replacement mirror must be warped slightly as when looking at the reflections it casts there are visual anomalies.

Update 1/6/18> I got a refund for the replacement mirror, then I ordered and received another.  I noticed similar visual anomalies with this one and realized it needed to be fully seated to the mount and the anomaly went away.  Now I am thinking the first mirror I purchased wasn't a problem after-all.  Keeping that first mirror as a spare.

The newish RR tire looks good with just the slight wobble that has been present (likely slightly bent axel).
 

The right upper ball joint allen hole is getting stripped out because I did not have the right size allen wrench.  Instead, I used vice grips to hold the upper ball joint around the boot on both sides (boot already was torn on both).

Car drives better now and does not seem wandery at high speeds. However, right side still sags just a little.  It seems that the RR shock may need to be replaced. To investigate.  Forum Discussion/Notes
 

Right & left side camber adjustment. Removed tab on camber adjustment bolt so that there is more room to adjust camber.  Adjusted right camber all the way in.  Adjusted left camber in half way but not all the way.  Adjusted by sight and by using a level. It seems pretty close.

Subsequently, right & left side toe adjustment. Used tape measure to measure distance between inside of tires front of tires vs. rear of tires and got toe pretty close.  There may be just a small bit of toe-in now.

I am now thoroughly convinced the right-front lean is due to faulty coil over shock assembly. To change both coil over shock assemblies.
 

I am concerned that the RR axel is bent.  As a test ,I swapped RF and RR wheels since RF wheel  & tire seems to have the least out-of-roundness of all, and I concluded that the RR axel seems bent. LR seems slightly bent and matches that of both sides of the Crown Vic which I checked for comparison purposes.  Put back on RR wheel strategically in effort to counter the axel wobble.  If I take the RR wheel off again, try to put it back on the same by marking 1 lug and 1 hole.  Theoretically I should try to keep the RR wheel on that spot always.

Hopefully this axel wobble does not mis-wear the new RR tire.

Installed new acorn lug nuts on remaining 3 wheels (RF, RR, LR) to complete the better style lug nuts on all 4 wheels.  These are better because the original lug nuts were thicker, and my 4 way lug wrench kept binding on the wheels when trying to get the nuts off.  The wrench size of these new nuts is smaller (19mm / 3/4in), so keep appropriate lug wrench in car.
 

Kept old tire for inspection: No obvious deformity with tread. To inspect tire  further and also rim. Also, check for more or less right-pull.

Handling:
It still has issues with handling at higher speeds.

The old tire has a noticeable defect when it rolls: It dips to one side in a particular area, but deformity is not noticed visually.

RR Rim inspection: Rim seems ok. Not sure

Changed oil and filter; oil = 5qt Rural King 5W20 Full Synthetic + 1qt RK 10W30 non-synthetic;  filter=Motorcraft FL-820S
 

7/15/17 update> I removed heat shield from right rear CC.  Yesterday, I hit the brakes hard, and now the rattle is no longer present.  I am refraining from drilling any holes in the CC unless rattle returns.

7/26/17
The rattle returned days ago.
Put a screw through the RR cc.
Discovered that the LR CC is rattling also.
Put a screw through it. The rattle stopped but came back.

Options:
a) Cat delete pipe
*Hard to find
*expensive
*Exhaust will be louder
*Exhaust may smoke
  (Youtube of a pre 97 showed lots of smoke. Youtube of a 2004 showed no smoke.)
*Will there be an issue with lack of backpressure? Mustangs need a tune of some sort when cat delete is implemented.

b) Replacement aftermarket cat pipes approx $120 each.
*The most difficulty will be getting the rear bolts loosened.

c) Replace both rear CCs.
*May be difficult to maintain seal unless pay for welding.

d) Continue putting in screws.

e) Cut and bend open flap on CC, remove CC material pieces, bend close, and seal with VersaChem muffler & exhaust sealer. However, there may be a drone noise due to missing material in cat.

f) Cut out CC and replace with straight pipe, 2 clamps, and VersaChem Muffler & Exhaust Sealer.
 

7/27/17 update>  I put many screws through the CC and it helped for the first 5 minutes then the rattle came back. This is a fruitless effort.

Can I remove the CC pipe assembly, turn it vertical and shake out the pieces? Only if there is not a screen in the output of the rear CC.
Forum Discussion/Notes

Replacement CC assemblies are cheapest on RockAuto.com:
EASTERN CATALYTIC 30383 ECO II Left
EASTERN CATALYTIC 30384 ECO II Right


7/28/17
Rattle ceased this morning. Odd.

7/30/17
Found that there appears to be no more material in RR CC.

Found that there is still lose material in LR CC, though it is not rattling at all.

Patched 1 screw hole on RR CC and 2 screw holes on LR CC using VersaChem 10161 Muffler & Exhaust Repair. To test endurance.

4/27/18
Right rear cat is blocked again and acceleration is suffering. Need to do something ASAP.
Notes to resume at 4/27/18 entry above.

Note: I have many 5qt jugs of RK 5W20 Full Synthetic oil, so I will be using this mostly from now on until stock has been depleted.

Note: Lots of grit and small pieces of what looks like black paper gasket present in oil, but some of that may have fallen out of the oil filter when I dumped it in the oil drain pan.

MAF: Cleaned MAF with carb cleaner and cotton stick.

Air temp sensor: Cleaned air temp sensor with carb cleaner.

Air filter: Thoroughly blew out air filter.
 

Adjusted LF and RF toe out almost all the way back to the way Firestone adjusted it. 
Currently it is estimated that there is just a little bit of toe-in.

Removed basic / incorrect wheel nuts from LF Ebay replica rim, and installed bulge acorn wheel nuts which fit much better.
Note: Keep universal lug wrench in car since these new wheel nuts are of a different hex socket size.

When front of car is jacked up in center of pillar under engine, car leans right.
This would imply that the RF is heavier than the LF  (or that the frame is bent?).
Forum Discussion / Notes
 

The current car tire config is as follows:
LF=GoodyearViva3(5/18/17-99,352 on Ebay replica/new rim)  
RF=GoodyearViva3(3/27/17-97,100)

LR=Sumitomo (6/24/14-82,246 on Ebay RIM 4/7/17)  
RR=Mastercraft (1/6/14-73,382)

Note: The Ebay replica/new rim will need bulge acorn wheel nuts (on order from Ebay), as the current basic wheel nuts don't seat properly and bind in the mount holes.

Note: Wheel nut size for this car is "1/2-20".

Car pulls right slightly with current config, however wind has been blowing right also.
Car tested to 68mph and is much less shaky and feels more stable. To test further.

Car is now in suitable condition for a trip.

Future: To reduce toe-in back to spec. and observe.
 

Car pulls to the right.
 

The weight of this wheel is 21lbs.
The weight of an OEM wheel from the car is 19.5lbs.
 

Removed spare tire. Swapped LF & RF: Car pulls left slightly.  Likely need to replace RF rim, and tire. Rim is definitely deformed, and tire seems cupped.

The current car tire config is as follows:
LF=Mastercraft (more tread than RF) 
RF=Mastercraft (less tread than LF & deformed rim & cupped tire)

LR=Sumitomo (lots of tread) on Ebay RIM 4/7/17  
RR=Goodyear Viva (new as of 3/27/17)

Car pulls left slightly with current config.
 

Update 5/12/17> I received, and replaced the LF side marker lense.  The front (blinker) socket was a loose fit to the front hole of the new lense.  I cut 2 layers of cork gasket to match the existing socket gasket and attached the socket to the lense. When I did so there was a crack sound, but upon inspection, nothing looks cracked.  Informing Ebay seller.
 

1) Swapped RF (Sumitomo) with LF (Mastercraft). 
LF is now Sumitomo, RF is now Mastercraft:  Car pulls to the LEFT now. The pull followed the Sumitomo tire - interesting.

2) Swapped LF (Sumitomo) with LR (Mastercraft).
LF is now Mastercraft, LR is now Sumitomo.
I do not recall which direction the car pulled after this rotation but I think it was left  but only slightly.

3) Swapped LF (Mastercraft) with RF (Mastercraft).
LF now has a little bit less tread than RF but both are Mastercraft.
Car pulls to the right.

The net change after the above 3 rotations is that the LR (Mastercraft) was swapped with the RF (Sumitomo).
LR is now Sumitomo, and RF is now Mastercraft.

The current car tire config is as follows:
LF=Mastercraft (worn tread)         
RF=Mastercraft (more tread than LF)

LR=Sumitomo (lots of tread)
RR=Goodyear Viva (new as of 3/27/17) on Ebay RIM 4/7/17

Sumitomo is "Sumitomo Touring LST"
 

The other cause might be a faulty vacuum check valve located on the firewall.
Update> I sprayed lots of silicon into the vacuum tube leading to the vacuum check valve with the engine running.  If the problem is with the VCV, perhaps the silicon will help.
 

Forum Discussion / Notes
 

Campbell's: $90

Bob the mechanic (works for Campbell's) 887-0115: Unable to contact.

Tire Kingdom: 9450031 s/w Steven:  $90  6 month Warranty
Suggested to swap the front tires and see if pulling changes.

Firestone CCPKWY 205-2021: jerry 84.99 one time, or $169.99 lifetime (on sale) (as long as i own the car). Jerry said bent rim or balance issue will not affect alignment.
Alignment can be done at either Firestone or Tires Plus nationwide.
Deciding to go with Firestone lifetime alignment.
 

Update 3/21/17  96,845mi> Jacked up RR, and LR separately and put in gear. Spun wheels and carefully observed: I could not find any significant issue with rear tires or wheels.

Raised RF and LF separately. Spun wheels by hand: Noticed RF tire is a bit more imperfect than the rest.  The inner edge has what seems to be a raised area and a dipped area.  This could be the cause of the shake.

Update 3/23/17> I noticed I must hold the steering wheel a bit left to continue to go straight.  Also, the RF outer wheel rim is flattened in an area, indicating perhaps it had once struck a hard object. Replace wheel? Get alignment? 

Update 3/25/17 97,000mi> Swapped RF tire with spare and shake was gone.
Rotated RF with RR tires and shake is still present with same intensity.
To replace bad Mastercraft tire which is now on RR.
225 60 R16  98T

Update 3/27/17> I went to Walmart and had (RR) tire replaced. They replaced wrong tire and I caught it while car was still in garage.  They fixed the mistake, but placed the other car tire (Sumitomo?) onto the rim with the deformity.  I drove around town and thought the problem was fixed, when in fact the vibration came back and I clearly observed that the rim with the deformity is definitely bent. I need to get a replacement unbent rim.  I kept the old Mastercraft tire as I doubt it is "bad" afterall. The rim OEM part number is apparently:
3W33-1007-AA
3W3Z1007BB

(I eventually used the old Mastercraft tire as a spare tire for the 97 CV).

3/28/17 97,130mi>
Adjusted toe on RF wheel just over 1/4 turn to bring toe in (when facing forward looking right, turned tie rod clockwise 1/4 turn). Originally turned 1/2 turn but that was too much and caused steering wheel to be more towards the right. I did this because I think whatever caused the RF wheel to become bent  I assume the toe went outward slightly. Steering still pulls slightly right but steering wheel is a little more straight.  I hope this adjustment won't prove to be a mistake.

Update 4/7/17 97,496mi> I previously ordered a used rim from Ebay, and today I had the rim swapped and tire/rim combo balanced at Walmart.  The shake is gone. However, the pull to the right is still present. I next need to  consider getting an alignment.

Forum discussion / Note: '04 MGM - Shake Between 30-32mph

Update 4/10/17> There still is some shaking. The LR tire seems the be out-of-round the most.

Forum discussion / Notes: '04 MGM Needs An Alignment - Questions 
 

Checked all exterior light bulbs

Checked and topped off all tires (except spare)
 

Added fluid to power steering reservoir to raise level which was just below MIN to MAX.
Used Mercon ATF (not Mercon V ATF) per owner's manual.

With regard to the knock sound that happens when power is suddenly added and removed:
*Checked the 4 torque converter to flex plate nuts and they all are tight.  Confirming the count to be 4.
*Jacked up the rear end and checked U Joints: The is no play.  The transmission is also bolted firm.
Ran the motor in drive and was able to duplicate the sound.  It seems to be coming from the transmission but still it is difficult to tell. It is an intense knock when witnessed under the car.

Noticed the torque converter does NOT have a drain plug in it.
 

Update 10/27/16> Idle doesn't settle down so turned set screw 3/4 turn CW, for an overall net of 1 turn CCW.

At some point after this I adjusted the set screw back to its original setting.
 

UPDATE 10/14/16: Seal is holding good. No more tick or exhaust odor.

Forum Discussion / Notes
 

Forum post that discusses how to replace blower speed controller.

Forum post detailing the BMSC module.

No EATC trouble codes reported, and now blower stays on LOW when shut off.

Determined that indeed the BMSC (Blower Motor Speed Controler) was faulty. Removed old one and replaced with new one: Duralast JA1710 .
 

Note: There is a faint left-side tick only when cold.  The tick is almost completely gone when the manifold heats up (and likely expands).

There is also a rattling sound coming from under the car in the area of the right catalytic converter pipe assembly. 
 

Cleaned all fuel injectors by using low voltage to open them and sprayed carb cleaner through.

Car idles somewhat smoother than before.

Need to replace LR door lock actuator. Ordered part.
 

Cleaned MAF and temperature elements.

With throttle fully open (engine off), sprayed carb cleaner down throat of intake (10-15 seconds) then ran car.  Throat was crudded.
 

Spray painted right-rear bumper chrome which was mostly chipped off.

Created and installed 120v wiring for power taps at front passenger seat, rear seat, and trunk.

Created power tap off of rearview mirror wiring for radar detector
Update 8/16/16> I noticed power is cut off when car is put in reverse.
Update 8/22/16> A few days ago I tapped into the 3rd wire which was determined to be hot independent of the shifter position.
 

Programmed Homelink button to open and shut garage door.
Forum Instructions extracted from Homelink Instructions.
 

Waxed car with McGuires wax.

The bottom of the differential cover has some apparent leaked oil from the past.  Checked differential oil level:  Some came out of the fill port so that means it is full.

The underside of the trunk had patches of surface rust, so wirebrushed, sanded, and gray-primered the underside of the trunk.

Checked air filter: It is moderately dirty and no need to change it for at least 10-20,000 miles.

Sprayed lube over rusty area under the hood such as brake lines, EGR, and blower motor in effort to slow any further rusting.

Used warm/hot water and thoroughly washed engine compartment and underside of car including within frame holes and crevices. Lots of sand came out of the crevices.

Used rubbing compound on body chrome and got rid of corrosion/pitting.

Replaced LR brake light bulb.

RainXed the windows.
 

Noticed Delayed reverse engagement when putting gear shift lever in reverse, but not more than 2 seconds as the TSB describes.
Forum Discussion / Notes (JPOST)

Forum Discussion / Notes (other poster)

Wheel alignment.